FAQ-Frequently Asked Questions-How To

FAQ-Frequently Asked Questions-How To

New Thread Color for ALL Products-Olive Green

New Thread Color for ALL Products

It’s easy to place an order, choose your product, design it with several options (stitching color), add to shopping cart & MTR starts handcrafting the order!

When you come to checkout, you can decide on your shipping options (expedite or standard shipping) more information check out our TERMS/SHIPPING PAGE

Also, at checkout there will be a comment box where you can add any thing else about your order regarding your gun make and model, custom features, alterations, etc.

After you receive your order, then please leave us a review on Google, Facebook and the product that you ordered.
Leave us a Google Review:

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Customer Service:
em: sales@mtrcustomleather.com
ph: (336) 879-2166 or (336) 879-2767

Check out our sister site: Tactical Gear, holsters, concealment bags, light and lasers attachments, ar parts and more!
http://www.southernedc.com

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FAQS

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New Item>>>>Paddle & Screw Hardware Replacement

What is a paddle holster? A paddle holster is a way of securing your handgun using a flat-concave-shaped piece of plastic with a thin piece silicone backing for grip and comfort.

A paddle holster has several advantages and the number one advantage to this type of holster is being able to remove your firearm and holster quickly from your body without having to undo your belt.

How To Wear A Paddle Holster

Some people wonder how to wear a paddle holster. The paddle holster uses friction on the paddle to keep it securely attached to your clothing’s waist. A paddle holster doesn’t require the use of a belt which makes it compatible with many different styles of clothing however the clothing must be tight or the waistbands must have very little wiggle room.

Sometimes it’s best to wear clothes that are slightly larger and loose than your normal clothing to help with concealment. Another important aspect to consider with a paddle holster is the fit of the firearm you will be carrying.

A paddle holster is especially helpful for people that get in and out of cars constantly.

Plastic Paddle can be an alternative for a paddle attachment on a Low-Rider Holster (Swan) (C-1)

Also can be an replacement option for all of our Paddle holsters and Sentinel Holster replacement.

***Check your current holster to see if it has wide hole or narrow hole spacing, so we know which belt loop to send you to fit on your current holster. Example pictures are in the product gallery of the hole spacing. If you are unsure, then send us a picture of the back of your holster through our Live Chat button or email at sales@mtrcustomleather.com.

***CLICK TO BUY >>https://www.mtrcustomleather.com/product/paddle-screw-hardware-replacement/

How to place an order- MTR Custom Leather

It’s easy to place an order, choose your product, design it with several options, add to shopping cart & MTR starts handcrafting the order!

When you come to checkout, you can decide on your shipping options (expedite or standard shipping) more information check out our TERMS/SHIPPING PAGE

Also, at checkout there will be a comment box where you can add any thing else about your order regarding your gun make and model, custom features, alterations, etc.

After you receive your order, then please leave us a review on Google, Facebook and the product that you ordered.
Leave us a Google Review:

https://g.page/r/CU9Ww-brV4m4EB0/review

Buy NOW:

https://www.mtrcustomleather.com

 

Social Media Links:

https://www.facebook.com/MTRCustomLeather/

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https://www.linkedin.com/in/mtrcustomleather

https://www.tiktok.com/@mtrcustomleather?_t=8gcY88UyRJb&_r=1

 

Affiliate Program Link: leather, leather tools, patterns and more click the link below:

https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl

Travel & Save

https://www.booking.com/index.html?aid=8004446

 

 

Customer Service:

em: sales@mtrcustomleather.com

ph: (336) 879-2166 or (336) 879-2767

 

Check out our sister site: Tactical Gear, holsters, concealment bags, light and lasers attachments, ar parts and more!

http://www.southernedc.com

 

Check out our EBAY Store:

https://www.ebay.com/usr/mtrcustomleather

 

After Hours:

*Feel free to google message us or facebook message us

*Visit our site for a fast response with our LIVECHAT experience

https://direct.lc.chat/10104497/

 

Daily Blogs:

https://www.mtrcustomleather.com/blog-2/blog/

 

FAQs Questions are Answered:

https://www.mtrcustomleather.com/faqs/

 

Join our loyalty Program/Brand Ambassador:

https://www.mtrcustomleather.com/contact/

How to Dye Leather

Learning How to Dye Leather is easy

 4 tips on how to dye leather

  • Choosing a leather dye
  • Benefits of using oil leather dye
  • Setting up your leather dye workspace
  • Methods for dyeing leather

BUY SUPPLIES HERE> https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl 

Sometimes our first thought is, oh no dying leather is going to be expensive or make a mess. No, it does not have to be that way!

Now! Let’s find out how to dye leather!

1. Choosing a leather dye

There are many kinds of leather dye out there. Chuck says, “Go straight to Oil Dye.” It is his favorite leather dye! See why Chuck favors oil leather dye below.

BUY SUPPLIES HERE> https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl 

2. Benefits of using oil leather dye:

DIP DYE

We can dip dye leather using oil leather dye. Dip dying leather is very fast, clean and consistent.


RICH COLORS

When we are looking at leather dyes, one of the qualities we want is rich color. Oil Leather Dye provides rich and beautiful colors. We capture beautiful reds, greens, and a full selection of browns when using oil leather dye.

BUY SUPPLIES HERE> https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl 

COLOR CONSISTENCY

Another feature we are looking for when dying leather is color consistency. The color consistency as it spans across your leather project is excellent when you are using oil leather dye.


PLIABLE LEATHER

We do not want the leather to be stiff after dying it. Oil leather dye allows the leather to feel pliable just like it did before it was dyed.

BUY SUPPLIES HERE> https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl 

LEATHER DYE NOT RUBBING OFF

Last but most important is, that we don’t want our dye rubbing off. We must understand that there is no perfect sealant to dye. The best pair of Italian shoes on a rainy day will bleed but this process will get us so close that leather color bleeding is almost negligible.


3. Setting up your leather dye workspace

SUPPLIES NEEDED

Not all of us have the luxury of a big worktable or a big shop to work on our leather projects. Sometimes we are working on the kitchen table, the card table or the coffee table.

BUY SUPPLIES HERE> https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl 

PLASTIC GARBAGE BAG

First thing is to put down a plastic bag perhaps like a folded white garbage bag. We won’t be throwing this bag away regularly but using it to roll up the other supplies so we can sit it aside when we are finished and easily unroll it when we want to dye leather again.

BUY SUPPLIES HERE> https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl 

CARDBOARD OR WRAPPING PAPER NEEDED

Secondly, the plastic bag may get wet, slippery and pool with dye so we don’t want our leather project getting spotted when we flip it over, therefore we need to have some inexpensive paper laid down on the plastic bag. Wrapping paper or cardboard works nicely.

BUY SUPPLIES HERE> https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl 

RUBBER GLOVES

Now we add rubber gloves for the simple reason of preventing our hands from getting dye on them.


LIDDED CONTAINER

Put our oil leather dye into a lidded container that will accommodate our project so that it may be dipped and slid through the dye.

BUY SUPPLIES HERE> https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl 

4. Methods for dying leather

AIRBRUSHING

There are several ways to dye leather. We can use an airbrush which is the top notch best way to go. However, most people don’t have air compressors, air brushes or the room to do airbrushing.


DAUBERS

Daubers are a great way to dye leather and they will hold a lot of leather dye. If we have ever used foam brushes after putting them into the leather dye we know how they dribble all the way to your project. Well, a dauber will not drip like that. Daubers are made of lamb’s wool, are disposable and keep your hand away from the dye.

BUY SUPPLIES HERE> https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl 

DIP DYE

We can dip dye because we are using oil leather dye. We don’t have to worry about the leather getting stiff or the colors going dark.


HOW TO DIP DYE LEATHER

  • Because most leather projects have a little hole in them somewhere we can make little hooks out of wire coat hangers or bailing wire and use them for dip dying leather. If we don’t have a hole in the project we can dip dye with our fingers making sure we put on rubber gloves first.
  • By putting the hook in the hole and lowering the leather down into the container of oil dye we can dip the project in the dye and smoothly coat the leather. No need to go real fast or slow just a steady pace.
  • When we pull the leather up and out of the dye container with the hook still in the hole we can tap the leather on the side of the container to knock off excess leather dye.
  • After that, just lay the leather project on the paper above the plastic with the back side down and let it dry.
  • After it dries we will topcoat it. The topcoat adds life to the piece. See our video on Top Coats Here!

BUY SUPPLIES HERE> https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl 

Once we start working with dyes a world of possibilities will open to us. There are dyes, stains and antiques and particularly oil dyes that give us such rich colors that we can take every leather project to the next level.

Need to re-condition a leather product? What to use on my holster to break it in? MTR Custom Leather offers only the best for the best products. Here is the place to get you waxes, conditioners, kits and break in solutions. Everything is made in the USA and is natural, no chemicals. MTR knows best for the leather products. Get your wax today! All leather care is usually in stock and will ship out within 3 business days! Need additional leather dyes, waxes, kits & more, check out our affiliated link https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl

Different Types Of Belt Buckles: Which One Is Right For You?

Greetings, buckle enthusiasts!

From the humble prong buckle to the flashy western-style trophy buckle, these little accessories can make a big statement about your personality and style.

Belt buckles are more than just a functional accessory to hold up your pants. They can be a fashion statement, a symbol of achievement, or simply a way to express your individuality.

Whether you’re a cowboy or a city slicker, there’s a buckle out there that’s just right for you. In this article, we’ll explore some of the different types of belt buckles and what makes them unique.

Let’s get started.

HEEL BAR BUCKLES – THE CLASSIC CHOICE
Heel Bar Buckle

The heel bar buckle is one of the most common types of belt buckles and for good reason. The bar runs across the heel of the buckle, and when you use one of these, you’re going to need to add a loop or a “belt keeper.”

That’s going to hold down the tongue of the belt or the strap. Weaver Leather Supply sells all manner of pre-made keepers, including decorativemetal, and veg tan. For veg tan, if you dye the project, you can dye the keeper so it will be a perfect match.

There is an unlimited variety of heel bar buckles in terms of fashion, western, period, basic, utility, sizes, colors, and finishes. You can buy the buckle first and then design the belt around the buckle design. It’s a classic choice that never goes out of style.

BUY HERE

CENTER BAR BUCKLES – THE BUILT-IN KEEPER
Center Bar Buckles – The Built-In Keeper

center bar buckle is another popular choice that doesn’t require a separate belt keeper.

The bar goes right across the center so you don’t need a keeper because the buckle is the keeper. You can also have a two-pronged center bar so all you have to do is punch two oblong holes. This type of buckle is great for a clean, minimalist look.

TROPHY BUCKLES – FLASHY & FASHION-FORWARD
Trophy Buckles – Flashy and Fashion-Forward

If you’re looking for a more statement piece, then the trophy buckle is a great option. You don’t need an oblong or even a keeper for this buckle. It’s a popular choice for sports teams, rodeo riders, and other organizations that want to show off their accomplishments. You can get a trophy buckle with your name, logo, or design engraved on it.

There’s nothing wrong with making it personal!

BUCKLE SETS – MULTIPLE BEAUTIFUL DESIGNS
Buckle Sets – Multiple Beautiful Designs

Weaver Leather Supply has multiple, beautiful buckle sets with many different designs. They can be customized to match your style and preferences. Buckle sets typically include a buckle, a keeper, and a tip. Some sets also include conchos or other decorative elements.

These sets are a great option for those who want a coordinated look from top to bottom. Is that you?

CONWAY BUCKLES – AN UNDERAPPRECIATED GEM
Conway Belt Buckles

You don’t see Conway buckles often, but they have great benefits. You don’t need a keeper, oblong, screws, or snaps. All you need is a line of holes. If you have a strap that needs to be adjusted from time to time or you want to bring two straps together, this is a perfect choice.

It’s different to master the movement on this buckle, but once you do, you’ll appreciate the simplicity and versatility.

TIME TO SECURE THE BUCKLE

Let’s talk about the most underrated and often overlooked part of a belt – the buckle. Buckles are the unsung heroes that keep your pants up and add a touch of personality to your outfit. But, did you know there are different ways to secure your buckle? Here are some highly efficient ways to make your belt stand out.

  1. THE RIVET – Heavy-Duty HeroesIf you want a secure buckle that can withstand any adventure, rivets are your heroes. Double cap rivets104 tubular rivets, and solid copper or solid brass rivets and burrs make great options. Check out our full selection to add just the right touch to your project. Not only do they look great, but they’re also durable and easy to set.
  2. LINE 24 SNAP – The Buckle SwapperIf you like to change your buckle often, the line 24 snap is the perfect option for you. It’s good for 7-8 ounce or 8-9 ounce leather and comes in multiple finishes. Swap out your buckle to match your outfit without any hassle.
  3. LINE 20 SNAP – The Lightweight ChampIf you have a lighter leather belt, the line 20 snap is the way to go. It’s perfect for a 4-5 ounce or 5-6 ounce leather and comes in multiple finishes. Keep it simple and secure with this lightweight champ.
  4. CHICAGO SCREW – The Strong and Easy OptionIf you want a buckle that’s strong and easy to swap out, the Chicago screw is your go-to option. It’s a threaded rivet with two big benefits.First, it’s easy to install and remove, so you can change your buckle with ease. Second, it’s strong enough to use on high-stress points on your leather belt. Weaver Leather Supply even adds a slot for an Allen wrench on this rivet to make installation a breeze.

SEWING – THE BELT STRENGTHENER

If you’re looking to add some extra strength to your belt, sewing is a great option. However, traditional production belts are sewn across the belt, which can weaken the belt’s strength. Instead, sew along the edges of the belt to maintain its strength. If you’re using a heel bar buckle, you’ll need to add a keeper, which can become tedious with multiple stitch lines. If you’re not feeling up to sewing or securing your buckle with rivets or snaps, a simple knot can add personality to your belt. Get creative with different knots to add some flair to your outfit.

BUCKLE UP AND GET STARTED!

Adding a new buckle to your leatherwork project is an excellent way to personalize and elevate your creation. Whether you opt for a heel bar or center bar buckle, a trophy buckle, or a Conway buckle, each option offers a unique look and functionality. Don’t be afraid to experiment and have fun with your leatherworking projects. Ultimately, the best belt buckle is the one that fits your design and style preferences.

Fortunately, there are endless possibilities!

PREMADE BELTS CAN BE PURCHASED HERE:

https://www.mtrcustomleather.com/product-category/gun-belts/

MTR offers a wide range of custom belts manufactured in USA. Each belt is custom made to order by one of our leather professionals. MTR uses only the top grade leather to construct each belt. With heavy duty nylon stitching to resist wear, tearing and dry rotting. When choosing your MTR belt you will find many options to choose from: size, color, stitching color, stiffeners, hardware type and a few more depending on the belt type that one chooses. If you do not see an option that you are needing, than please feel free to call us (336)879-2166 or email us at sales@mtrcustomleather.com. We will be glad to assist you!

Have you lost a screw? Want a different buckle for your belt? This is the place to be. MTR Custom Leather hardware section is an easy way to replace your current or lost hardware. This section allows you to purchase screws, metal and leather washers, holster clips, tee nuts and buckles. Only the best hardware for your leather goods. Check our MTR Custom Leather hardware section. All hardware is usually in stock and will ship within 3 business day! Need additional hardware check out our affiliated link https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl

Three Top Leatherworking Tools

An Overview of Three Top Leatherworking Tools

1. Hammers

Hammers

Leatherworkers have a variety of hammers to choose from in today’s marketplace. With a rounded face that helps prevent marring of the leather, our favorite Leatherworking Hammer is a handy, versatile tool that’s great for sharp folds, forming leather, tapping stitches and lace, adhering cemented parts and “blocking” leather keepers.

While leatherworking hammers are great for a variety of tasks in your workshop, you’ll want to advance to a good mallet or maul for leather stamping, leather tooling, and more advanced leatherworking techniques.

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2. Mallets

Leather mallets come in different materials and weights to meet your needs. Take a few minutes to explore the options and determine which are top contenders to earn a place on your workbench.

 

POLY MALLETS

An image of Poly Mallet in usePoly mallets (plastic mallets) are the next level up from wooden mallets; they’re inexpensive and available in a wide variety of weights and sizes.

  • 9 oz. poly mallets are great for setting rivets, stamping and tooling.
  • 14 oz. and 19. oz. mallets are also available. While they offer a bit more power, please be aware that they could become heavy for repetitive use on more time-consuming leather projects.

You’ll find that durability is the main benefit of plastic mallets. With little or no evidence of wear after extended use, the longevity of a poly mallet makes it a trusted leatherworking tool you’ll have on your bench for years.

DISCOVER INSIDER TIPS ON POLY MALLETS IN OUR MALLETS & MAULS TUTORIAL:

Another widely-used option, with some distinct advantages compared to a poly mallet, is a traditional rawhide mallet.

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RAWHIDE MALLET

An image of Rawhide Mallet in useRawhide mallets, though lacking the durability of poly mallets, offer a steadier and more consistent impact on leatherworking tools including: leather stampsleather punches and rivet setters. Rawhide mallets are popular in 11 oz. and 20 oz. sizes, and the heavier option is better reserved for tasks like setting copper rivets or tubular rivets.

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Which mallets have more to offer, plastic mallets or rawhide mallets?

Again, it comes down to personal preference in the end…however, it is good to keep in mind that:

Poly mallets are susceptible to stuttering or double bouncing, especially when striking a tool with a lot of force—in some cases, a tool may even fly off the granite with a hard hit using a plastic mallet.

So, what rawhide mallets lack in durability, they make up for in stability. Also, when rawhide mallets begin to wear down, you can sand down the worn end to replenish years of utility.

In addition, a lighter weight rawhide mallet is a great high-endurance alternative for tasks requiring a bevel.

PRO TIP FOR SETTING A RIVET, EYELET, GROMMET, OR SNAP

When setting rivets, eyeletsgrommets or snaps, you’re looking for moderate weight for some nice control. A mid-weight rawhide mallet offers good, clean punches every time.

WOODEN MALLETS

Wooden mallets are at the very bottom of the totem pole for leatherworking performance. They’re cheap, and they lack weight and durability. Unless you only need a mallet for a one-time job as a stop-gap option, you’ll want to step up from a wooden mallet.

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3. Mauls

An image of a Maul

For many pro leather toolers, once they start working with leather mauls, they don’t go back. There are a few reasons.

  • Well balanced– Mauls feel stable in the hand, making it easy to hit the tool soundly and consistently.
  • Round face– As opposed to using square-faced mallets, mauls allow more room for error when striking the tool. It’s not necessary to hit the tool on the center of the face to use a maul effectively. The circular face also significantly reduces the possibility of deflections.
  • Rocking vs. Hitting– Mauls are used with a rocking motion of the wrist, as opposed to the hammer-like hitting motion of a mallet. While it takes some getting used to, using a maul over a long work session takes less energy and puts less stress on the body. For pro leather craftspeople who spend many hours a day tooling, mauls make sense from this standpoint.

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TOOLING & STAMPING

Weight options:

  • 16 oz.: good for very delicate tooling, but not as effective for most leather tooling purposes.
  • 24 oz.: a solid weight, and highly versatile…the downside is that the heavier weight may cause increased fatigue before a task is finished, which can lead to issues with concentration and poor hits on the tool, making for bad or inconsistent leather stamping.


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LEATHER PUNCHING

For striking a leather punch with power and accuracy, a 1-1/2 to 2 lb. maul is a good bet for consistent performance.

32 oz.– 48 oz.: these weight classes are reserved for heavy-duty leather punching tasks, involving large oblong punches and strap end punches. One good strike goes right through!



For even more power, you could choose a 3 lb. maul for striking oblong and strap end punches. You’ll trade some finesse with brute force with a heavier maul. However, the best part about a giant maul is that even if you don’t connect clean and flat on the tool, you’re still going to get a good punch every time, and the tool does all the work.


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Final Notes

Well, there you have it. We’ve looked at an assortment of hammers, mallets and mauls and their most appropriate applications. Essentially, they all do the same job, but each is a little more refined to a specific job in your shop.

For a walk-through of specific applications of various mallets and mauls, check out this helpful tutorial from our leathercraft expert Chuck Dorsett:



If you’re on a budget and focused on beginner leather projects, like leather keychains, leather mousepads, leather pouches, leather card wallets, leather watchbands or leather earrings, we recommend a rawhide mallet. It’s affordable, durable, comfortable in the hand, and will do any job in your shop.

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DOWNLOAD HAMMER, MALLET & MAUL PROJECT RECOMMENDATIONS PDF

Now that you’re equipped with some expert advice on mauls, mallets, and hammers, you’re ready to select the right one for your needs and budget. Adding the right leatherworking tools to your workbench is the secret to success throughout your leatherworking journey.

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How to Hand Sew Leather-Leather Supplies-Waxes, Dye, Thread & More

Leather Sewing – Intro

While admiring a well-crafted leather handbag or belt we might conclude that the leather sewing is beautiful and perfect. We might wonder how the leather sewing process happened. Was it sewing leather by hand or using a sewing machine that sews leather? Did you know that you can learn how to do leather sewing by hand?

Sewing leather by hand is sometimes referred to as hand stitching leather. While there are many models of leather sewing machines that do a wonderful job when sewing leather, we will learn in this guide how to sew leather by hand. We will see that we can do an awesome job of sewing leather just by applying the steps we are about to learn. At the end of this guide, we will provide links to some sewing machines that sew leather and items that you need to sew leather by hand.

It will be amazing to see how easy and beautiful our hand stitched leather is and what a wonderful outcome we achieve. We are looking for ease and outcome when we do leather sewing (leather hand stitching). Leather hand stitching is quick, easy and affordable.

Chuck Dorsett our resident leather crafter will be teaching us the art of leather sewing by hand. We will start by using a hand stitching kit that has everything you will need to sew leather. This kit contains Ritza Tiger Thread, John James Saddler’s Harness Needles, a Stitch Groover, a Flat Chisel Set and a Stitching Pony (Sewing Pony).

This guide is geared toward a leathercraft beginner or someone who has started leather crafting, but has not yet done leather sewing by hand.

We will be using a saddler’s stitch. It is the only stitch that Chuck Dorsett uses, and, it is beautiful and in his opinion, stronger than a leather sewing machine stitch. The great thing about learning this leather hand stitch is that we can make projects as intricate as a leather briefcase with nothing more than a coffee table or kitchen table to work on. We can hand sew patent leather, make journal covers, holsters and sheaths just by learning to do leather sewing by hand (leather saddle stitching).

Yes, sewing can be tedious, but not really when you get the hang of it. You can sew 2 ½” in one minute and it looks as beautiful as a leather sewing machine stitch.

BUY SUPPLIES NOW: leather, leather tools, patterns and more click the link below:
https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl


Making Leather Groove Lines & Using a Groover

 

Adding a groove line to leather:

The primary job of a groover is to sink a trench along the edge of our leather. The groove line serves two purposes.

  1. It is a great guide for our stitching chisels.
  2. It will allow our stitch line to sink down into the leather and that will reduce the chance of the thread snagging or catching on things when the project is finished.

The stitch groove guide arm is adjustable so we can move our groove line in or out from the edge of our leather.

Pro tip: If we do lots of leather crafting it is great to have two stitch groovers. Take one groover and put yellow tape on the base of the handle and set it for 1/8”. We can quickly and easily grab it to make our sewing grooves (stitch lines).



How to use a Groover:

  1. Our groover has a guide arm and a cutting head. After setting the guide arm to 1/8” for your chisel line, butt the guide arm against the edge of the leather. Lets bring our hand that is holding the groover up about 45 degrees and give it a little counterclockwise pressure as we slide down the leather and cut a groove.
  2. That will make a nice clean parallel line to our leather’s edge. We can make multiple passes on this but keep this warning in mind, by doing several passes we would create a tab that will tear off. This would ruin the durability of our project.
    Pro tip:
    Although the primary job of our groover is to create a guide for our chisel line, it looks good on all our project edges even if we don’t stitch. A groove line really gives a finished look to our leather edges.

BUY SUPPLIES NOW: leather, leather tools, patterns and more click the link below:
https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl

How To Hand Sew Round Corners and Square Corners

Leather sewing practice exercises

We will be doing two exercises to get practice with leather sewing by hand. We will sew two pieces of leather together that have a square corner and two pieces that have a rounded corner. This will teach us how to handle both applications.

 

How to Hand Sew Leather with a Square Corner

 

  1. We will practice marrying two pieces of leather together that are same size squares. We will groove and chisel them separately and then sew the leather together.
  2. Take our first piece of leather and drop in a groove line on two sides where the lines will meet in the corner. We will run the groover right off the edge for this practice piece. Do the same process to the matching piece of leather on its face side. Typically, we would bevel and slick the edge so putting the grooved line right to the edge would not be an issue.
  3. Now let’s start to chisel. Take one piece of our square corner leather and the 1-tine chisel. Exactly on the corner groove, drive a tine hole with our tine handle slightly leaning toward the outside corner. (Watch video above).
  4. Now take the 2-tine chisel and line up one of the tines in the corner hole and gently just mark it by aligning it in the groove hole and gently tapping the chisel once. Do the same with the other side of the corner, but just mark it don’t pierce the leather, yet.
  1. Now let’s take the 6-tine chisel and put it in the second marked hole from the corner. Feel it sink into the groove line. Tap the chisel, piercing the leather and making the stitching holes. We’ll work our way out to the end. There may be enough room for a single hole to finish the end. If so, grab the 2-tine chisel, put the first tine into last hole and mark it. Then use the single tine to make the hole. Repeat on the other edge of the leather. Now you should have two stitch lines that meet at the corner.
  2. Grab the other piece of the square leather and do the same process as above. You can line up your first chiseled leather piece to the piece you are working on and eyeball it to make sure it looks spaced right, but this process should make them line up nicely. When you start stitching, they line up more.
  3. It’s time to start sewing leather by hand, but first some tool tips and info.
  4. Tool talk:
    • stitching pony or sewing pony is an immense help to hold the leather while we sew. For us crafters, the stitching pony allows us to clamp it on our table. We are also able to clamp it in all manner of configurations that helps us not to fatigue our arms and it keeps our hands in a natural position.
      stitching horse or sewing horse is different as it allows us to sit on it while sewing.
      Chuck Dorsett suggests putting some leather pieces on the top of the stitching pony to protect our leather projects from dings. See video above.
    • Ritza Tiger Thread. You get three basic colors in the kit, but it is also available in a variety of beautiful colors. Ritza thread is a very strong braided thread and one highly recommended by Chuck Dorsett.
    • John James sewing needles are extremely strong with a large eye so the big waxed thread can go through it, and they don’t have sharp points.

 

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How to Hand Sew Leather with a Rounded Corner

 

  1. First, take one of your practice pieces of leather and mark a round corner and cut it with a utility knife.
  2. A leather project with rounded corners requires a different process to make sure our rounded corners match. For our practice, we will glue our backing onto our face leather. It would be very difficult to cut two leather pieces that are flopped with a round corner that matches.
  3. What we do to make matching rounded corners easier is glue the first rounded corner, face up onto the backing leather piece. Then, we use the face leather as our straight edge and cut the backing leather with a utility knife. You’ll be amazed at how clean our edge is going to be.
  4. Let’s cut both of our straight edges first and leave the rounded corner for the last cut. Now, slowly cut the rounded corner by using the face leather as a guide. We can do small cuts to work our way around the rounded corner.
  5. Now, let’s make our groove line on the front side. We will start at one side and groove over to the end of the other side, grooving around the rounded corner. Do not put a groove line on the backside because our chisel line would probably not line up to a groove line on the back and it would look terrible if they were misaligned. So, let’s just skip the groove line on the back.
  6. Move the leather onto a quartz or marble block with our cutting board on top. It’s time to drop in our chisel line. We will use a 1/8” straight tine that comes in the sewing leather kit. It is a favorite of Chuck Dorsett’s, but we could also use a 1/8” diamond hole chisel.
  7. Note about stitching chisel tines: A sign of a quality tine is as the spread gets smaller so does the tine. We start with a 6-tine chisel that has a 1/8” spread. Typically, that equals 5 stitches per inch.
  1. Note: 4 stitches really gets big, and 6 stitches starts to group.
  2. Start on one end of the leather sample and drop the chisel into the groove line keeping the chisel straight up and down. Tap it a couple of times with our mallet. We can look on the backside and see that our tines pierce and show through the leather.
    Note: To get the chisel out of the leather do not rock it left and right because that reams open the holes. Instead, we take our index finger and line it up to the left side of the chisel and walk it out gently by going up and down.
  3. Take the first tine and put it in the last hole feeling the chisel sink down into the groove line and tap it a couple of times with the rawhide mallet.
  4. Now we are nearing the corner and we now choose the 4-tine. Putting the 4-tine, first tine into the last hole, feeling it sink into the groove line, give it two taps with the mallet and then pull it out.
  5. Now, let’s use a 2-tine chisel by putting the first tine in the last hole. Let’s just work our way around the corner but don’t run the tine through the leather, just mark the holes around the corner. When we get to where the groove line straightens out again, stop.
  6. Use the one tine chisel and make the holes, one at a time, around the corner where you marked. This will make consistent hole spacing and a nice stitch line.
  7. Now, we can go back and use the 6-tine chisel on the straight groove line to finish making the stitch holes. But as we get to the edge of the leather, we need to eyeball the space we have left to make stitch holes. If we bring the last hole to close to the edge it won’t be durable. So, we may need to use one of the smaller chisels. For this example, the 3-tine chisel worked perfectly for making the last two sets of stitching holes.

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How to make a backstitch closure on leather

  1. Let’s take a clip and put it on the two edges of the square leather just to keep it lined up when we put it into the sewing pony and until we get a few stitches in it.
  2. Now drop the two pieces of leather into the sewing pony. Since we have chiseled both sides of the square example, here is the way we hand stitch this type of application.
  3. First load your thread:
    • Take Ritza Tiger Thread and cut it 4 times the total length of the project we are going to sew. The thing that we don’t want is to start sewing and get almost to the end and be left with two little nubs to try and tie a knot. Thread is inexpensive and we should not skimp.
    • Take one end of the thread and load it into the needle. Take the other end of the thread and load it into the second needle.
    • The thread is very long. We can choke up or pull on our extra thread to make it shorter and easier to work with. We pull both ends of the thread all the way out with each stitch, giving it a little tug with each hand to tighten it. We can extend the choked thread as needed. This process can be better understood by watching the video above around the 15:00 mark.
  4. Start on either side, it does not matter. Put one needle in the first hole, pull thread through and then equalize the thread.
  5. Now push needles in from both sides, make an X shape with the needles, draw that stitch down to tighten and seat the stitch. Repeat that process all the way down to the last hole in the square leather piece.
  1. A sewing machine will backstitch but we are going to have to backstitch by hand. We will have to squeeze both needles through two pieces of thread inside the previous hole that we just sewed. It is a tight squeeze, and we may have to work at it, but it makes a secure closure. We will need to go back 3 or 4 stitches by repeating this process.
  2. Let’s take our utility knife and hold it close to the thread that we pulled through. Take each side of the thread and run it against the blade to finish off our backstitching.
  3. Tip for stitching long pieces of leather:
    When sewing a long leather strap (example: belt or brief case strap) we can run into a problem because we are constantly having to move our project in the sewing pony. To remedy that problem, we can take a piece of suede string and attach it to the rafter and tie a clip on the end. The clip can be adjusted by tying up slack with the suede string. We can then clip the end of our belt or strap, and it will hold steady while it is loaded in the sewing pony. This will allow us to stitch leather and keep our hands in a comfortable position. When we need to move it, all we must do is loosen the sewing pony and tie the suede up so the clip is raised.
  4. How to clean wax build-up on a leather stitching needle:
    You’ll notice that as you stitch, leather wax will build up on your needles and hang in the needle’s eye making it hard to thread the needle. Just grab your needles (without thread), eyes on one end and run a lighter under the eyes. Take a cloth and wipe the melted wax off while it is hot. The needles will be just like new and ready to go.

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How to Saddle Stitch Leather

  1. It’s time to start sewing leather by hand. Load the rounded corner sample leather into the stitching pony and secure clamp.
  2. Take Ritza Tiger Thread and cut it 4 times the total length of the project we are going to sew. The thing that we don’t want is to start sewing and get almost to the end and be left with two little nubs to try and tie a knot. Thread is inexpensive and we should not skimp.
  3. Take one end of the thread and load it into the needle. Take the other end of the thread and load it into the second needle.
  4. Since the thread is very long, we can choke up or pull on our extra thread to make it shorter and easier to work with. We pull both ends of the thread all the way out with each stitch, giving it a little tug with each hand to tighten it. We can extend the choked thread as needed.
    This process can be better understood by watching the video around the 15:00 mark.
  5. The saddler’s stitch is just a back-and-forth stitch, easy to remember how to get started because we take one needle and push it through the first hole on the left-hand side.
    Note: We have the leather loaded in the sewing pony so the face (or side we punched from) is facing outward toward the left. The point to remember is the hole that we punched from is funnel shaped and the hole on the other side is pucker shaped. So, by starting the needle through the funnel shaped or (punched from side) opens the back hole. If you are right-handed, the leather can be loaded so you can lead with the right hand.
  6. Finish pulling the needle through and equalize the thread between the two needles. Take the needle in the left hand and push it halfway between the second hole. Then take the needle in the right hand and push it halfway through the same (second) stitch hole but keep it in front of the other needle. Pull lightly downward on both needle’s eyes. Notice how that makes an X. The first needle in, opens the hole further on the opposite side so the second needle can slide in easier, in front of the first needle.
  1. Let’s take our fingers and go from the needle’s eyes to the needle’s tips and pull both needles through as far as the thread reaches and give a little tug to tighten and seat our previous stitch.
    Note:You don’t have to pull super hard.
  2. Pro tip: Perhaps we don’t have a lot of strength in our hands, we can do leather sewing this way:
    Put the first needle through like in the previous step and pull the thread back towards us, then put the second needle through the same hole making sure you run it through in front of the thread you just pulled toward you. That will keep you from splitting a stitch.
    Another tip to prevent you from making blisters on your fingers:
    When we sew large projects, we pull and tighten each stitch putting pressure on different fingers each stitch. One area will not be overly subjected to the friction of pulling and tightening the thread.
  3. When we get to the next to the last stitch hole, let’s pop the glue that is holding the leather together at the end. The glue is there to hold long enough to get our chisel and thread line in.
  4. On the last hole, we will tie a square knot. Put the needle in on the left side but only put it through the first ply and push needle forward. Do the same for the other side but only put needle through one ply. Tug it to tighten the stitch line down.
  5. We now tie a square knot. Take the right-hand thread and go over the left-hand thread, circle around and draw the knot down good and tight into the two plys of leather. Then take the left over the right, circle around and draw it down into the leather ply good and tight. There will be a little knot sticking out, but no problem because we will be hammering down our stitch line which will make the stitches look clean and consistent.
    Note: Let’s use our utility knife where the blade meets the base of the knife. That is a place on the blade that we rarely use, it is very sharp. Line that part of the blade up with the thread and pull the thread onto the knife blade to cut it. Don’t pull the knife on the thread, but the pull the tread backward onto the knife to make the cut.



How to Hammer Down a Leather Stitch Line

When we hammer down our stitch line it does two things:

  1. It will close our holes, so we see thread and not holes.
  2. It will sink the thread line below the top grain because we have a groove in there. We can use a mallet, but we don’t want our mallet at such an angle that it is going to leave hammer marks inside on our leather. For this example, we used a tack hammer and hammered the line down. It will make the stitch line clean and consistent and when we run our hand across it, we cannot even feel the thread.
  3. Hammer down both leather project’s stitch lines and we are done with our sewing leather lessons.

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New Exotic Leather- Genuine Teju Lizard Skin Holsters-Ammo Pouches-Slings & More!

  • Common name: common tegu
  • Scientific name: salvator merianae
  • Source: wild
  • Country of origin: Argentina
  • Color-Matte Sky Blue

We can make any rifle sling, ammo pouches, holsters, keychains and more. Keep in mind that the lizard is small in size and may need to be pieced together.

Lizard skins don’t get nearly enough love from the average fashion designer. Sure, crocodile and alligator leather are widely recognized as top-tier fashion materials, and python skins are an ever-popular choice, but you don’t often hear much about major fashion projects using lizard skin.

One of the reasons that we use the term lizard skin is that there are actually a few different species of lizard that fall under this skin category.

For example, there are three kinds of lizard skins:

  • Teju lizard, or Tupinambis Merianae. This lizard comes from the Southern portions of South Africa. The scales of the Teju lizard are small and almost square-shaped, with larger rectangular scales along the belly. Like a python, the Teju’s skin has irregular color patterns that vary by subspecies.
  • Ring lizard, or Varanus Salvator. Hailing from Indonesia, the ring lizard’s skin has a series of small round color patterns in its scales, hence the name. Like the Teju lizard, the ring lizard’s scales are small and square-like, with larger, more rectangular, scales along the belly.
  • Nile Lizard, or Varanus Niloticus. Mostly found in Sudan, the Nile lizard has smaller scales than the ring and Teju lizards. The belly scales on these hides are still larger and more rectangular than the back scales.

While these hides all have similarities such as in the size of their scales and the overall size of the hide, the individual colors vary and the shapes of the scales can be subtly different. This gives you a little more variety when ordering lizard skins than you might have originally expected.

 

Choose any items from our list below and you will see the exotic leather skin listed as an option!

Everything About Lizard Leather-Durability-Wear-Maintenance & Much More! 

Hello, mate! Grab your Indiana Jones hat and a cheesy Australian accent, because today we’re going to be talking about lizards!

I’m not going to spend too much time selling this type of leather, because clearly these creatures are the closest thing we’ve got to real dinosaurs, and I think that’s all that really needs to be said. When you’re dealing with lizard skin, you’re going to have a wide canvas of wild and florid patterns and colors to choose between, and a leaping plethora exotic creatures, such as snakes and crocodiles, to make your base. You can’t deny this leather’s attraction. The bright blaze against slick scales catches the eye better than a leering snake, scaling over a proud, distinctive, and feral quality truly unique among leathers. That, and lizard skin is pretty darn tough.

Magic Scales

Lizard leather scales are remarkably water proof, and provide excellent protection from the elements. Pesky stains shan’t be nearly as much of a threat to lizard skin as to other leathers, although this shouldn’t be your cue to take it for granted. Those scales are rooted in place by a well lubricated membrane beneath them, which they are charged with protecting. Should that membrane dry up, the scales can pop off, which really doesn’t bode well for the aesthetics. Try not to take lizard leather out under excessive weather conditions, such as rain. If it does get wet, just blot up the moisture with a dry, clean cloth or paper towel. Blot, mind you, don’t wipe. Wipe smears, and blot absorbs – the latter is your friend. If the leather is lighter in hue, it may darken with excess water, so try to take care of it sooner rather than later. You can read more about how water affects leather in our blog “How Does Leather Breathe?

Speaking of water, it’s also going to be important to clean your lizard leather. For a regular spot clean, snag a soft, slightly damp cloth (only slightly, lest the water run off the scales and into the membrane), and wipe the scales until all visible dust is removed. When you do this, you will want to wipe in the direction the scales are flowing. If you aren’t sure how to verify this, a good trick is to run your finger softly across the leather in a straight line. If the skin feels rough, you’re running the wrong way. The skin should feel smooth to the touch as you slide your finger. If you spot dirt building up in the grooves, you can try to use a soft, bristled brush (an artist’s paintbrush is ideal) to get it out. Be very careful not to lift the scales. Once they come off, they will be unable to be returned to place.

Bubble Time

You may want to give your lizard skin a more thorough cleaning every so often, especially if it’s grown excessively dirt. Use a non-alcoholic, wax free leather cleaner designed for exotic reptile leather, and test it before you work it on. Gently sample a small amount in a discreet area of your leather with a white, lint-free cloth. Check the cloth for excess color rub off, discoloration in the lizard skin, or any other side effects. If none are present, you’re good to go. Apply your leather conditioner much the same way as you did with the spot clean – wipe gently in the direction of the scales, brush between them with a sable paintbrush, and absorb any residual moisture with a clean cloth afterwards. Let it dry in a cool, indoors area away from sunlight and direct heat. Sunlight and heat are harmful for lizard leather care, as they can dry out your leather fast and may shrink it. Reptiles are cold blooded, you’ll remember. Keep them in a cool room, and you’ll feel terribly clever about yourself. Those “inside” jokes are the best.

Thing about cleaning – once you have used a leather cleaner, it’s going to take away the lubricants that held your leather together. As a result, the leather’s pores have opened up to receive more oils, and if they don’t get them, they’re going to dry out. To this end, good lizard leather care dictates that a proper conditioning is in order. Depending on how much dirt it’s exposed to and how often you apply a leather cleaner, you probably won’t have to do this too much. If you clean and condition your lizard leather twice a year (condition your leather very soon after you clean it), you should be good most of the time. Play it by ear, and pay attention to your leather. If it shows signs that it’s drying up, bring out your conditioner, and remember to clean it first.

Spit and Polish

When you get ready to condition your lizard leather, make sure you are using a conditioner designed for exotic reptile leather. These conditioners possess a lighter composition and different viscosity than standard leather conditioners, and will be much healthier for your lizard. Try to make sure it’s wax and silicon free too – silicon has a tendency to dry leather out, and wax often has the effect of obscuring the iridescent quality that gives lizard leather its glimmer. Test your conditioner the same way you did your cleaner, and if it checks out, use a soft, clean cloth or brush to massage it in the direction of the scales, and let it dry for about fifteen minutes. Afterwards, buff the rest off – again in the direction of the scales – until any residue is gone. Stand back and admire the shine.

Note: Reptile leather is often laminated over a layer of cowhide. If this is present on your leather item, treat the cowhide as you would traditional leather (if you don’t know how to treat or identify your cowhide, click here for more information on that), but take care not to get any of your cowhide leather treatments on the lizard leather. If you are in an area with increased weather exposure, you may also want to apply a water and stain protector to your lizard leather while you’re at it. Go with something non-silicon, and spray works best. Make sure it’s meant for exotic reptile leather care, and test before using.

Lounging Lizards

Finally, to keep your lizard leather in good condition, try to store it in the aforementioned cool, clean, indoors location away from sunlight and direct heat. Inside of a breathable container works best, like a wooden box or a dust bag. Try not to put things on top of it to avoid stress, and keeping it in stuffed in newspapers or packing paper, which are more porous than leather, can help keep it strong.

That’s all the basics you’ll need to know about lizard leather care! Remember to take good care of your leather, and it may go on to outlive you! If these little buggers can thrive where the dinosaurs went extinct, imagine how legendary that leather wallet of yours can be. Even past death, they live on, their hide fending off the merciless elements and protecting your greens with ferocious, pointy scaled ferocity. For what they lack in size, these tiny dragons more than make up for in gut. Give’em a chance, and they’ll show you what a real survivor looks like.

Lizard Leather can be an added options to all of our leather products located on

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WHO WE ARE
Founded in 2009 in the community of Coleridge located in Ramseur, North Carolina, our one-man company was making just a few custom items a week for local friends and family as a hobby. Now, MTR Custom Leather is one of the largest providers of holsters and related gear in the world. We thank you, our faithful customers, for helping us attain this position.

Rest assure that our team will continue to be advanced in our designs, materials and methods in order to maintain the firmest quality control procedures and offer you the best revolutionary products. Here, at MTR we are a Christian family owned that proudly stands behind our products as we have first done in the beginning. We are life-time members of the NRA. We like to continually keep improving and enhancing our products as well as engineering new holsters. We always test new holsters out before even advertising it to the public.

We strive hard to produce the best holsters out on the market and our number one focus when manufacturing our product is Quality. We only use the best grade A materials when it comes to constructing the products. We are pro 2nd amendment and are pushing for the safest product to carry a weapon in. We are here to fight for your protection. We only want you carrying the best and functional product to help you when in need.

Specialize in exotic leathers, handcrafting leather holsters with lasers, light, optics, rmr, red dots, threaded barrel, suppressor sights, compensators and much more!

MTR Custom Leather, LLC

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Check out our FAQ on our site for additional fast answers with pictures and descriptions of all the many options that we offer.

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Info from https://leathermilk.com/lizard-leather-care

Dyed Leather with Different Color Threads Stitched Onto the Leather-MTR Custom Leather Color Options

Have you ever wondered what different color threads would look like on all of our different color leather options? 

We get asked a lot for pictures of different leather colors with certain thread colors. And what does each thread color look like.

Well we listen to you!

Hopefully, this chart will give you an idea of what thread colors look good on certain leather dyes. Maybe this will help you with choosing the right color combination. Keep in mind, that the colors may be slightly different in person on each item.

WHY?

MTR Custom Leather, LLC HAND dyes each leather to the certain color that you choose (saddle tan, dark brown, black and mahogany). With that being said, each piece of leather that we dye comes from a REAL ANIMAL (cow, horse, exotic leather). Each animal has different grains of skin, meaning they have different pores on there skin, just like humans beings.

 

That means that the leather dye will either absorb/penetrated a lot of dye (soak it up like a sponge) or not.

Large Pores-Darker color

Small Pores-Lighter color

Unfortunately we can not tell the size of pores on each animal skin with our eyes. It take a microscope to determine the size of pores.

TIP:

Black is the best choice to choose if you are worried about matching a belt, holster and ammo pouch.

Find out more color combinations on holsters, belts, ammo pouches and more on our social media.

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Shop handmade leather product from a small business in USA with all USA materials. We specialize in all sorts of leathers, even exotic leather like: elephant, stingray, shark, ostrich, giraffe, alligator, caiman, lizard, python, eel, beaver & more. Not only do specialize in exotic leather, but also weapons with lasers, light attachments, red dots, suppressor sights, threaded barrels, compensators & more! All orders are made to order! You design it and choose from all the many options including, thumb break safety strap, sweat shield (body shield), single or double stitching, open or enclosed end, colored stitching, internal liner and many more! MTR Custom Leather wants you to have the perfect holster that functions just the way you like it!

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