Month: October 2023

How to Dye Leather

Learning How to Dye Leather is easy

 4 tips on how to dye leather

  • Choosing a leather dye
  • Benefits of using oil leather dye
  • Setting up your leather dye workspace
  • Methods for dyeing leather

BUY SUPPLIES HERE> https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl 

Sometimes our first thought is, oh no dying leather is going to be expensive or make a mess. No, it does not have to be that way!

Now! Let’s find out how to dye leather!

1. Choosing a leather dye

There are many kinds of leather dye out there. Chuck says, “Go straight to Oil Dye.” It is his favorite leather dye! See why Chuck favors oil leather dye below.

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2. Benefits of using oil leather dye:

DIP DYE

We can dip dye leather using oil leather dye. Dip dying leather is very fast, clean and consistent.


RICH COLORS

When we are looking at leather dyes, one of the qualities we want is rich color. Oil Leather Dye provides rich and beautiful colors. We capture beautiful reds, greens, and a full selection of browns when using oil leather dye.

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COLOR CONSISTENCY

Another feature we are looking for when dying leather is color consistency. The color consistency as it spans across your leather project is excellent when you are using oil leather dye.


PLIABLE LEATHER

We do not want the leather to be stiff after dying it. Oil leather dye allows the leather to feel pliable just like it did before it was dyed.

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LEATHER DYE NOT RUBBING OFF

Last but most important is, that we don’t want our dye rubbing off. We must understand that there is no perfect sealant to dye. The best pair of Italian shoes on a rainy day will bleed but this process will get us so close that leather color bleeding is almost negligible.


3. Setting up your leather dye workspace

SUPPLIES NEEDED

Not all of us have the luxury of a big worktable or a big shop to work on our leather projects. Sometimes we are working on the kitchen table, the card table or the coffee table.

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PLASTIC GARBAGE BAG

First thing is to put down a plastic bag perhaps like a folded white garbage bag. We won’t be throwing this bag away regularly but using it to roll up the other supplies so we can sit it aside when we are finished and easily unroll it when we want to dye leather again.

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CARDBOARD OR WRAPPING PAPER NEEDED

Secondly, the plastic bag may get wet, slippery and pool with dye so we don’t want our leather project getting spotted when we flip it over, therefore we need to have some inexpensive paper laid down on the plastic bag. Wrapping paper or cardboard works nicely.

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RUBBER GLOVES

Now we add rubber gloves for the simple reason of preventing our hands from getting dye on them.


LIDDED CONTAINER

Put our oil leather dye into a lidded container that will accommodate our project so that it may be dipped and slid through the dye.

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4. Methods for dying leather

AIRBRUSHING

There are several ways to dye leather. We can use an airbrush which is the top notch best way to go. However, most people don’t have air compressors, air brushes or the room to do airbrushing.


DAUBERS

Daubers are a great way to dye leather and they will hold a lot of leather dye. If we have ever used foam brushes after putting them into the leather dye we know how they dribble all the way to your project. Well, a dauber will not drip like that. Daubers are made of lamb’s wool, are disposable and keep your hand away from the dye.

BUY SUPPLIES HERE> https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl 

DIP DYE

We can dip dye because we are using oil leather dye. We don’t have to worry about the leather getting stiff or the colors going dark.


HOW TO DIP DYE LEATHER

  • Because most leather projects have a little hole in them somewhere we can make little hooks out of wire coat hangers or bailing wire and use them for dip dying leather. If we don’t have a hole in the project we can dip dye with our fingers making sure we put on rubber gloves first.
  • By putting the hook in the hole and lowering the leather down into the container of oil dye we can dip the project in the dye and smoothly coat the leather. No need to go real fast or slow just a steady pace.
  • When we pull the leather up and out of the dye container with the hook still in the hole we can tap the leather on the side of the container to knock off excess leather dye.
  • After that, just lay the leather project on the paper above the plastic with the back side down and let it dry.
  • After it dries we will topcoat it. The topcoat adds life to the piece. See our video on Top Coats Here!

BUY SUPPLIES HERE> https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl 

Once we start working with dyes a world of possibilities will open to us. There are dyes, stains and antiques and particularly oil dyes that give us such rich colors that we can take every leather project to the next level.

Need to re-condition a leather product? What to use on my holster to break it in? MTR Custom Leather offers only the best for the best products. Here is the place to get you waxes, conditioners, kits and break in solutions. Everything is made in the USA and is natural, no chemicals. MTR knows best for the leather products. Get your wax today! All leather care is usually in stock and will ship out within 3 business days! Need additional leather dyes, waxes, kits & more, check out our affiliated link https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl

Different Types Of Belt Buckles: Which One Is Right For You?

Greetings, buckle enthusiasts!

From the humble prong buckle to the flashy western-style trophy buckle, these little accessories can make a big statement about your personality and style.

Belt buckles are more than just a functional accessory to hold up your pants. They can be a fashion statement, a symbol of achievement, or simply a way to express your individuality.

Whether you’re a cowboy or a city slicker, there’s a buckle out there that’s just right for you. In this article, we’ll explore some of the different types of belt buckles and what makes them unique.

Let’s get started.

HEEL BAR BUCKLES – THE CLASSIC CHOICE

The heel bar buckle is one of the most common types of belt buckles and for good reason. The bar runs across the heel of the buckle, and when you use one of these, you’re going to need to add a loop or a “belt keeper.”

That’s going to hold down the tongue of the belt or the strap. Weaver Leather Supply sells all manner of pre-made keepers, including decorativemetal, and veg tan. For veg tan, if you dye the project, you can dye the keeper so it will be a perfect match.

There is an unlimited variety of heel bar buckles in terms of fashion, western, period, basic, utility, sizes, colors, and finishes. You can buy the buckle first and then design the belt around the buckle design. It’s a classic choice that never goes out of style.

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CENTER BAR BUCKLES – THE BUILT-IN KEEPER

center bar buckle is another popular choice that doesn’t require a separate belt keeper.

The bar goes right across the center so you don’t need a keeper because the buckle is the keeper. You can also have a two-pronged center bar so all you have to do is punch two oblong holes. This type of buckle is great for a clean, minimalist look.

TROPHY BUCKLES – FLASHY & FASHION-FORWARD

If you’re looking for a more statement piece, then the trophy buckle is a great option. You don’t need an oblong or even a keeper for this buckle. It’s a popular choice for sports teams, rodeo riders, and other organizations that want to show off their accomplishments. You can get a trophy buckle with your name, logo, or design engraved on it.

There’s nothing wrong with making it personal!

BUCKLE SETS – MULTIPLE BEAUTIFUL DESIGNS

Weaver Leather Supply has multiple, beautiful buckle sets with many different designs. They can be customized to match your style and preferences. Buckle sets typically include a buckle, a keeper, and a tip. Some sets also include conchos or other decorative elements.

These sets are a great option for those who want a coordinated look from top to bottom. Is that you?

CONWAY BUCKLES – AN UNDERAPPRECIATED GEM

You don’t see Conway buckles often, but they have great benefits. You don’t need a keeper, oblong, screws, or snaps. All you need is a line of holes. If you have a strap that needs to be adjusted from time to time or you want to bring two straps together, this is a perfect choice.

It’s different to master the movement on this buckle, but once you do, you’ll appreciate the simplicity and versatility.

TIME TO SECURE THE BUCKLE

Let’s talk about the most underrated and often overlooked part of a belt – the buckle. Buckles are the unsung heroes that keep your pants up and add a touch of personality to your outfit. But, did you know there are different ways to secure your buckle? Here are some highly efficient ways to make your belt stand out.

  1. THE RIVET – Heavy-Duty HeroesIf you want a secure buckle that can withstand any adventure, rivets are your heroes. Double cap rivets104 tubular rivets, and solid copper or solid brass rivets and burrs make great options. Check out our full selection to add just the right touch to your project. Not only do they look great, but they’re also durable and easy to set.
  2. LINE 24 SNAP – The Buckle SwapperIf you like to change your buckle often, the line 24 snap is the perfect option for you. It’s good for 7-8 ounce or 8-9 ounce leather and comes in multiple finishes. Swap out your buckle to match your outfit without any hassle.
  3. LINE 20 SNAP – The Lightweight ChampIf you have a lighter leather belt, the line 20 snap is the way to go. It’s perfect for a 4-5 ounce or 5-6 ounce leather and comes in multiple finishes. Keep it simple and secure with this lightweight champ.
  4. CHICAGO SCREW – The Strong and Easy OptionIf you want a buckle that’s strong and easy to swap out, the Chicago screw is your go-to option. It’s a threaded rivet with two big benefits.First, it’s easy to install and remove, so you can change your buckle with ease. Second, it’s strong enough to use on high-stress points on your leather belt. Weaver Leather Supply even adds a slot for an Allen wrench on this rivet to make installation a breeze.

SEWING – THE BELT STRENGTHENER

If you’re looking to add some extra strength to your belt, sewing is a great option. However, traditional production belts are sewn across the belt, which can weaken the belt’s strength. Instead, sew along the edges of the belt to maintain its strength. If you’re using a heel bar buckle, you’ll need to add a keeper, which can become tedious with multiple stitch lines. If you’re not feeling up to sewing or securing your buckle with rivets or snaps, a simple knot can add personality to your belt. Get creative with different knots to add some flair to your outfit.

BUCKLE UP AND GET STARTED!

Adding a new buckle to your leatherwork project is an excellent way to personalize and elevate your creation. Whether you opt for a heel bar or center bar buckle, a trophy buckle, or a Conway buckle, each option offers a unique look and functionality. Don’t be afraid to experiment and have fun with your leatherworking projects. Ultimately, the best belt buckle is the one that fits your design and style preferences.

Fortunately, there are endless possibilities!

PREMADE BELTS CAN BE PURCHASED HERE:

https://www.mtrcustomleather.com/product-category/gun-belts/

MTR offers a wide range of custom belts manufactured in USA. Each belt is custom made to order by one of our leather professionals. MTR uses only the top grade leather to construct each belt. With heavy duty nylon stitching to resist wear, tearing and dry rotting. When choosing your MTR belt you will find many options to choose from: size, color, stitching color, stiffeners, hardware type and a few more depending on the belt type that one chooses. If you do not see an option that you are needing, than please feel free to call us (336)879-2166 or email us at sales@mtrcustomleather.com. We will be glad to assist you!

Have you lost a screw? Want a different buckle for your belt? This is the place to be. MTR Custom Leather hardware section is an easy way to replace your current or lost hardware. This section allows you to purchase screws, metal and leather washers, holster clips, tee nuts and buckles. Only the best hardware for your leather goods. Check our MTR Custom Leather hardware section. All hardware is usually in stock and will ship within 3 business day! Need additional hardware check out our affiliated link https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl

Three Top Leatherworking Tools

An Overview of Three Top Leatherworking Tools

1. Hammers

Hammers

Leatherworkers have a variety of hammers to choose from in today’s marketplace. With a rounded face that helps prevent marring of the leather, our favorite Leatherworking Hammer is a handy, versatile tool that’s great for sharp folds, forming leather, tapping stitches and lace, adhering cemented parts and “blocking” leather keepers.

While leatherworking hammers are great for a variety of tasks in your workshop, you’ll want to advance to a good mallet or maul for leather stamping, leather tooling, and more advanced leatherworking techniques.

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2. Mallets

Leather mallets come in different materials and weights to meet your needs. Take a few minutes to explore the options and determine which are top contenders to earn a place on your workbench.

 

POLY MALLETS

An image of Poly Mallet in usePoly mallets (plastic mallets) are the next level up from wooden mallets; they’re inexpensive and available in a wide variety of weights and sizes.

  • 9 oz. poly mallets are great for setting rivets, stamping and tooling.
  • 14 oz. and 19. oz. mallets are also available. While they offer a bit more power, please be aware that they could become heavy for repetitive use on more time-consuming leather projects.

You’ll find that durability is the main benefit of plastic mallets. With little or no evidence of wear after extended use, the longevity of a poly mallet makes it a trusted leatherworking tool you’ll have on your bench for years.

DISCOVER INSIDER TIPS ON POLY MALLETS IN OUR MALLETS & MAULS TUTORIAL:

Another widely-used option, with some distinct advantages compared to a poly mallet, is a traditional rawhide mallet.

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RAWHIDE MALLET

An image of Rawhide Mallet in useRawhide mallets, though lacking the durability of poly mallets, offer a steadier and more consistent impact on leatherworking tools including: leather stampsleather punches and rivet setters. Rawhide mallets are popular in 11 oz. and 20 oz. sizes, and the heavier option is better reserved for tasks like setting copper rivets or tubular rivets.

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Which mallets have more to offer, plastic mallets or rawhide mallets?

Again, it comes down to personal preference in the end…however, it is good to keep in mind that:

Poly mallets are susceptible to stuttering or double bouncing, especially when striking a tool with a lot of force—in some cases, a tool may even fly off the granite with a hard hit using a plastic mallet.

So, what rawhide mallets lack in durability, they make up for in stability. Also, when rawhide mallets begin to wear down, you can sand down the worn end to replenish years of utility.

In addition, a lighter weight rawhide mallet is a great high-endurance alternative for tasks requiring a bevel.

PRO TIP FOR SETTING A RIVET, EYELET, GROMMET, OR SNAP

When setting rivets, eyeletsgrommets or snaps, you’re looking for moderate weight for some nice control. A mid-weight rawhide mallet offers good, clean punches every time.

WOODEN MALLETS

Wooden mallets are at the very bottom of the totem pole for leatherworking performance. They’re cheap, and they lack weight and durability. Unless you only need a mallet for a one-time job as a stop-gap option, you’ll want to step up from a wooden mallet.

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3. Mauls

An image of a Maul

For many pro leather toolers, once they start working with leather mauls, they don’t go back. There are a few reasons.

  • Well balanced– Mauls feel stable in the hand, making it easy to hit the tool soundly and consistently.
  • Round face– As opposed to using square-faced mallets, mauls allow more room for error when striking the tool. It’s not necessary to hit the tool on the center of the face to use a maul effectively. The circular face also significantly reduces the possibility of deflections.
  • Rocking vs. Hitting– Mauls are used with a rocking motion of the wrist, as opposed to the hammer-like hitting motion of a mallet. While it takes some getting used to, using a maul over a long work session takes less energy and puts less stress on the body. For pro leather craftspeople who spend many hours a day tooling, mauls make sense from this standpoint.

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TOOLING & STAMPING

Weight options:

  • 16 oz.: good for very delicate tooling, but not as effective for most leather tooling purposes.
  • 24 oz.: a solid weight, and highly versatile…the downside is that the heavier weight may cause increased fatigue before a task is finished, which can lead to issues with concentration and poor hits on the tool, making for bad or inconsistent leather stamping.


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LEATHER PUNCHING

For striking a leather punch with power and accuracy, a 1-1/2 to 2 lb. maul is a good bet for consistent performance.

32 oz.– 48 oz.: these weight classes are reserved for heavy-duty leather punching tasks, involving large oblong punches and strap end punches. One good strike goes right through!



For even more power, you could choose a 3 lb. maul for striking oblong and strap end punches. You’ll trade some finesse with brute force with a heavier maul. However, the best part about a giant maul is that even if you don’t connect clean and flat on the tool, you’re still going to get a good punch every time, and the tool does all the work.


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Final Notes

Well, there you have it. We’ve looked at an assortment of hammers, mallets and mauls and their most appropriate applications. Essentially, they all do the same job, but each is a little more refined to a specific job in your shop.

For a walk-through of specific applications of various mallets and mauls, check out this helpful tutorial from our leathercraft expert Chuck Dorsett:



If you’re on a budget and focused on beginner leather projects, like leather keychains, leather mousepads, leather pouches, leather card wallets, leather watchbands or leather earrings, we recommend a rawhide mallet. It’s affordable, durable, comfortable in the hand, and will do any job in your shop.

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DOWNLOAD HAMMER, MALLET & MAUL PROJECT RECOMMENDATIONS PDF

Now that you’re equipped with some expert advice on mauls, mallets, and hammers, you’re ready to select the right one for your needs and budget. Adding the right leatherworking tools to your workbench is the secret to success throughout your leatherworking journey.

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How to Hand Sew Leather-Leather Supplies-Waxes, Dye, Thread & More

Leather Sewing – Intro

While admiring a well-crafted leather handbag or belt we might conclude that the leather sewing is beautiful and perfect. We might wonder how the leather sewing process happened. Was it sewing leather by hand or using a sewing machine that sews leather? Did you know that you can learn how to do leather sewing by hand?

Sewing leather by hand is sometimes referred to as hand stitching leather. While there are many models of leather sewing machines that do a wonderful job when sewing leather, we will learn in this guide how to sew leather by hand. We will see that we can do an awesome job of sewing leather just by applying the steps we are about to learn. At the end of this guide, we will provide links to some sewing machines that sew leather and items that you need to sew leather by hand.

It will be amazing to see how easy and beautiful our hand stitched leather is and what a wonderful outcome we achieve. We are looking for ease and outcome when we do leather sewing (leather hand stitching). Leather hand stitching is quick, easy and affordable.

Chuck Dorsett our resident leather crafter will be teaching us the art of leather sewing by hand. We will start by using a hand stitching kit that has everything you will need to sew leather. This kit contains Ritza Tiger Thread, John James Saddler’s Harness Needles, a Stitch Groover, a Flat Chisel Set and a Stitching Pony (Sewing Pony).

This guide is geared toward a leathercraft beginner or someone who has started leather crafting, but has not yet done leather sewing by hand.

We will be using a saddler’s stitch. It is the only stitch that Chuck Dorsett uses, and, it is beautiful and in his opinion, stronger than a leather sewing machine stitch. The great thing about learning this leather hand stitch is that we can make projects as intricate as a leather briefcase with nothing more than a coffee table or kitchen table to work on. We can hand sew patent leather, make journal covers, holsters and sheaths just by learning to do leather sewing by hand (leather saddle stitching).

Yes, sewing can be tedious, but not really when you get the hang of it. You can sew 2 ½” in one minute and it looks as beautiful as a leather sewing machine stitch.

BUY SUPPLIES NOW: leather, leather tools, patterns and more click the link below:
https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl


Making Leather Groove Lines & Using a Groover

 

Adding a groove line to leather:

The primary job of a groover is to sink a trench along the edge of our leather. The groove line serves two purposes.

  1. It is a great guide for our stitching chisels.
  2. It will allow our stitch line to sink down into the leather and that will reduce the chance of the thread snagging or catching on things when the project is finished.

The stitch groove guide arm is adjustable so we can move our groove line in or out from the edge of our leather.

Pro tip: If we do lots of leather crafting it is great to have two stitch groovers. Take one groover and put yellow tape on the base of the handle and set it for 1/8”. We can quickly and easily grab it to make our sewing grooves (stitch lines).



How to use a Groover:

  1. Our groover has a guide arm and a cutting head. After setting the guide arm to 1/8” for your chisel line, butt the guide arm against the edge of the leather. Lets bring our hand that is holding the groover up about 45 degrees and give it a little counterclockwise pressure as we slide down the leather and cut a groove.
  2. That will make a nice clean parallel line to our leather’s edge. We can make multiple passes on this but keep this warning in mind, by doing several passes we would create a tab that will tear off. This would ruin the durability of our project.
    Pro tip:
    Although the primary job of our groover is to create a guide for our chisel line, it looks good on all our project edges even if we don’t stitch. A groove line really gives a finished look to our leather edges.

BUY SUPPLIES NOW: leather, leather tools, patterns and more click the link below:
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How To Hand Sew Round Corners and Square Corners

Leather sewing practice exercises

We will be doing two exercises to get practice with leather sewing by hand. We will sew two pieces of leather together that have a square corner and two pieces that have a rounded corner. This will teach us how to handle both applications.

 

How to Hand Sew Leather with a Square Corner

 

  1. We will practice marrying two pieces of leather together that are same size squares. We will groove and chisel them separately and then sew the leather together.
  2. Take our first piece of leather and drop in a groove line on two sides where the lines will meet in the corner. We will run the groover right off the edge for this practice piece. Do the same process to the matching piece of leather on its face side. Typically, we would bevel and slick the edge so putting the grooved line right to the edge would not be an issue.
  3. Now let’s start to chisel. Take one piece of our square corner leather and the 1-tine chisel. Exactly on the corner groove, drive a tine hole with our tine handle slightly leaning toward the outside corner. (Watch video above).
  4. Now take the 2-tine chisel and line up one of the tines in the corner hole and gently just mark it by aligning it in the groove hole and gently tapping the chisel once. Do the same with the other side of the corner, but just mark it don’t pierce the leather, yet.
  1. Now let’s take the 6-tine chisel and put it in the second marked hole from the corner. Feel it sink into the groove line. Tap the chisel, piercing the leather and making the stitching holes. We’ll work our way out to the end. There may be enough room for a single hole to finish the end. If so, grab the 2-tine chisel, put the first tine into last hole and mark it. Then use the single tine to make the hole. Repeat on the other edge of the leather. Now you should have two stitch lines that meet at the corner.
  2. Grab the other piece of the square leather and do the same process as above. You can line up your first chiseled leather piece to the piece you are working on and eyeball it to make sure it looks spaced right, but this process should make them line up nicely. When you start stitching, they line up more.
  3. It’s time to start sewing leather by hand, but first some tool tips and info.
  4. Tool talk:
    • stitching pony or sewing pony is an immense help to hold the leather while we sew. For us crafters, the stitching pony allows us to clamp it on our table. We are also able to clamp it in all manner of configurations that helps us not to fatigue our arms and it keeps our hands in a natural position.
      stitching horse or sewing horse is different as it allows us to sit on it while sewing.
      Chuck Dorsett suggests putting some leather pieces on the top of the stitching pony to protect our leather projects from dings. See video above.
    • Ritza Tiger Thread. You get three basic colors in the kit, but it is also available in a variety of beautiful colors. Ritza thread is a very strong braided thread and one highly recommended by Chuck Dorsett.
    • John James sewing needles are extremely strong with a large eye so the big waxed thread can go through it, and they don’t have sharp points.

 

BUY SUPPLIES NOW: leather, leather tools, patterns and more click the link below:
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How to Hand Sew Leather with a Rounded Corner

 

  1. First, take one of your practice pieces of leather and mark a round corner and cut it with a utility knife.
  2. A leather project with rounded corners requires a different process to make sure our rounded corners match. For our practice, we will glue our backing onto our face leather. It would be very difficult to cut two leather pieces that are flopped with a round corner that matches.
  3. What we do to make matching rounded corners easier is glue the first rounded corner, face up onto the backing leather piece. Then, we use the face leather as our straight edge and cut the backing leather with a utility knife. You’ll be amazed at how clean our edge is going to be.
  4. Let’s cut both of our straight edges first and leave the rounded corner for the last cut. Now, slowly cut the rounded corner by using the face leather as a guide. We can do small cuts to work our way around the rounded corner.
  5. Now, let’s make our groove line on the front side. We will start at one side and groove over to the end of the other side, grooving around the rounded corner. Do not put a groove line on the backside because our chisel line would probably not line up to a groove line on the back and it would look terrible if they were misaligned. So, let’s just skip the groove line on the back.
  6. Move the leather onto a quartz or marble block with our cutting board on top. It’s time to drop in our chisel line. We will use a 1/8” straight tine that comes in the sewing leather kit. It is a favorite of Chuck Dorsett’s, but we could also use a 1/8” diamond hole chisel.
  7. Note about stitching chisel tines: A sign of a quality tine is as the spread gets smaller so does the tine. We start with a 6-tine chisel that has a 1/8” spread. Typically, that equals 5 stitches per inch.
  1. Note: 4 stitches really gets big, and 6 stitches starts to group.
  2. Start on one end of the leather sample and drop the chisel into the groove line keeping the chisel straight up and down. Tap it a couple of times with our mallet. We can look on the backside and see that our tines pierce and show through the leather.
    Note: To get the chisel out of the leather do not rock it left and right because that reams open the holes. Instead, we take our index finger and line it up to the left side of the chisel and walk it out gently by going up and down.
  3. Take the first tine and put it in the last hole feeling the chisel sink down into the groove line and tap it a couple of times with the rawhide mallet.
  4. Now we are nearing the corner and we now choose the 4-tine. Putting the 4-tine, first tine into the last hole, feeling it sink into the groove line, give it two taps with the mallet and then pull it out.
  5. Now, let’s use a 2-tine chisel by putting the first tine in the last hole. Let’s just work our way around the corner but don’t run the tine through the leather, just mark the holes around the corner. When we get to where the groove line straightens out again, stop.
  6. Use the one tine chisel and make the holes, one at a time, around the corner where you marked. This will make consistent hole spacing and a nice stitch line.
  7. Now, we can go back and use the 6-tine chisel on the straight groove line to finish making the stitch holes. But as we get to the edge of the leather, we need to eyeball the space we have left to make stitch holes. If we bring the last hole to close to the edge it won’t be durable. So, we may need to use one of the smaller chisels. For this example, the 3-tine chisel worked perfectly for making the last two sets of stitching holes.

BUY SUPPLIES NOW: leather, leather tools, patterns and more click the link below:
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How to make a backstitch closure on leather

  1. Let’s take a clip and put it on the two edges of the square leather just to keep it lined up when we put it into the sewing pony and until we get a few stitches in it.
  2. Now drop the two pieces of leather into the sewing pony. Since we have chiseled both sides of the square example, here is the way we hand stitch this type of application.
  3. First load your thread:
    • Take Ritza Tiger Thread and cut it 4 times the total length of the project we are going to sew. The thing that we don’t want is to start sewing and get almost to the end and be left with two little nubs to try and tie a knot. Thread is inexpensive and we should not skimp.
    • Take one end of the thread and load it into the needle. Take the other end of the thread and load it into the second needle.
    • The thread is very long. We can choke up or pull on our extra thread to make it shorter and easier to work with. We pull both ends of the thread all the way out with each stitch, giving it a little tug with each hand to tighten it. We can extend the choked thread as needed. This process can be better understood by watching the video above around the 15:00 mark.
  4. Start on either side, it does not matter. Put one needle in the first hole, pull thread through and then equalize the thread.
  5. Now push needles in from both sides, make an X shape with the needles, draw that stitch down to tighten and seat the stitch. Repeat that process all the way down to the last hole in the square leather piece.
  1. A sewing machine will backstitch but we are going to have to backstitch by hand. We will have to squeeze both needles through two pieces of thread inside the previous hole that we just sewed. It is a tight squeeze, and we may have to work at it, but it makes a secure closure. We will need to go back 3 or 4 stitches by repeating this process.
  2. Let’s take our utility knife and hold it close to the thread that we pulled through. Take each side of the thread and run it against the blade to finish off our backstitching.
  3. Tip for stitching long pieces of leather:
    When sewing a long leather strap (example: belt or brief case strap) we can run into a problem because we are constantly having to move our project in the sewing pony. To remedy that problem, we can take a piece of suede string and attach it to the rafter and tie a clip on the end. The clip can be adjusted by tying up slack with the suede string. We can then clip the end of our belt or strap, and it will hold steady while it is loaded in the sewing pony. This will allow us to stitch leather and keep our hands in a comfortable position. When we need to move it, all we must do is loosen the sewing pony and tie the suede up so the clip is raised.
  4. How to clean wax build-up on a leather stitching needle:
    You’ll notice that as you stitch, leather wax will build up on your needles and hang in the needle’s eye making it hard to thread the needle. Just grab your needles (without thread), eyes on one end and run a lighter under the eyes. Take a cloth and wipe the melted wax off while it is hot. The needles will be just like new and ready to go.

BUY SUPPLIES NOW: leather, leather tools, patterns and more click the link below:
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How to Saddle Stitch Leather

  1. It’s time to start sewing leather by hand. Load the rounded corner sample leather into the stitching pony and secure clamp.
  2. Take Ritza Tiger Thread and cut it 4 times the total length of the project we are going to sew. The thing that we don’t want is to start sewing and get almost to the end and be left with two little nubs to try and tie a knot. Thread is inexpensive and we should not skimp.
  3. Take one end of the thread and load it into the needle. Take the other end of the thread and load it into the second needle.
  4. Since the thread is very long, we can choke up or pull on our extra thread to make it shorter and easier to work with. We pull both ends of the thread all the way out with each stitch, giving it a little tug with each hand to tighten it. We can extend the choked thread as needed.
    This process can be better understood by watching the video around the 15:00 mark.
  5. The saddler’s stitch is just a back-and-forth stitch, easy to remember how to get started because we take one needle and push it through the first hole on the left-hand side.
    Note: We have the leather loaded in the sewing pony so the face (or side we punched from) is facing outward toward the left. The point to remember is the hole that we punched from is funnel shaped and the hole on the other side is pucker shaped. So, by starting the needle through the funnel shaped or (punched from side) opens the back hole. If you are right-handed, the leather can be loaded so you can lead with the right hand.
  6. Finish pulling the needle through and equalize the thread between the two needles. Take the needle in the left hand and push it halfway between the second hole. Then take the needle in the right hand and push it halfway through the same (second) stitch hole but keep it in front of the other needle. Pull lightly downward on both needle’s eyes. Notice how that makes an X. The first needle in, opens the hole further on the opposite side so the second needle can slide in easier, in front of the first needle.
  1. Let’s take our fingers and go from the needle’s eyes to the needle’s tips and pull both needles through as far as the thread reaches and give a little tug to tighten and seat our previous stitch.
    Note:You don’t have to pull super hard.
  2. Pro tip: Perhaps we don’t have a lot of strength in our hands, we can do leather sewing this way:
    Put the first needle through like in the previous step and pull the thread back towards us, then put the second needle through the same hole making sure you run it through in front of the thread you just pulled toward you. That will keep you from splitting a stitch.
    Another tip to prevent you from making blisters on your fingers:
    When we sew large projects, we pull and tighten each stitch putting pressure on different fingers each stitch. One area will not be overly subjected to the friction of pulling and tightening the thread.
  3. When we get to the next to the last stitch hole, let’s pop the glue that is holding the leather together at the end. The glue is there to hold long enough to get our chisel and thread line in.
  4. On the last hole, we will tie a square knot. Put the needle in on the left side but only put it through the first ply and push needle forward. Do the same for the other side but only put needle through one ply. Tug it to tighten the stitch line down.
  5. We now tie a square knot. Take the right-hand thread and go over the left-hand thread, circle around and draw the knot down good and tight into the two plys of leather. Then take the left over the right, circle around and draw it down into the leather ply good and tight. There will be a little knot sticking out, but no problem because we will be hammering down our stitch line which will make the stitches look clean and consistent.
    Note: Let’s use our utility knife where the blade meets the base of the knife. That is a place on the blade that we rarely use, it is very sharp. Line that part of the blade up with the thread and pull the thread onto the knife blade to cut it. Don’t pull the knife on the thread, but the pull the tread backward onto the knife to make the cut.



How to Hammer Down a Leather Stitch Line

When we hammer down our stitch line it does two things:

  1. It will close our holes, so we see thread and not holes.
  2. It will sink the thread line below the top grain because we have a groove in there. We can use a mallet, but we don’t want our mallet at such an angle that it is going to leave hammer marks inside on our leather. For this example, we used a tack hammer and hammered the line down. It will make the stitch line clean and consistent and when we run our hand across it, we cannot even feel the thread.
  3. Hammer down both leather project’s stitch lines and we are done with our sewing leather lessons.

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Trick or Treat-Halloween SALE-Leather Goods-Over 3 Coupon Codes-New Updates

Features:

Sweat/Body Shield
Custom Molded to each weapon
Covers the full length barrel & Trigger guard
Heavy Duty Nylon stitching for better retention
halloween10
Shop Now
We can make any rifle sling, ammo pouches, holsters, keychains and more. Keep in mind that the lizard is small in size and may need to be pieced together. Choose any items and you will see this option under Exotic Leather section.

New Holster Alert!! Platinum Edition A-5 Deluxe Full Size Quick Snap Leather Holster

Call Today (336) 879-2166 or Shoot us an email with your order sales@mtrcustomleather.com

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Getting Started in Leathercrafting

Getting Started in Leathercrafting

If you enjoy expressing yourself through creative hobbies, leatherworking and leathercrafting are sure to provide plenty of inspiration with a wide range of projects perfect for a variety of skill levels and style aesthetics. To get you started out right, this beginner’s guide to making leather goods is packed with project tutorials, recommended leatherwork tools, basic leatherworking skills, and more! With just a few inexpensive leatherwork tools, online instruction and tutorials from industry experts, and your own imagination, you’ll be poised to successfully complete your first leathercraft project at your own kitchen table or in your workshop.


Buy Here:


6 HELPFUL TIPS

1. Leather project selection simplified

When you first embark on your leathercraft journey, take a look at a variety of leather projects for beginners and select one that appeals to your unique interests and sense of style. A smaller leather project with a manageable completion time will give you the opportunity to practice easy-to-learn skills and techniques that will serve as a foundation for more advanced projects in the future.

NEED SOME INSPIRATION?

Leather Keychain, a Leather Mousepad, a Leather Pouch, a Leather Card wallet, a Leather Watchband, and more can make great first projects. Explore some leather project ideas and tutorials to select the right project for you. Also, be sure to download our free leather patterns featuring our popular card wallet holder and shortie belt templates for even more inspiration! Discover leather project tutorials Here.

DOWNLOAD FREE LEATHER PATTERNS BELOW:

Free Card Wallet Holder Pattern
Free Shortie Belt Pattern



2. Affordable Leathercrafting supplies

As with any new hobby, you’ll want to try out leathercrafting without breaking the bank! Selecting leather and supplies that are easy on the budget allow you to focus your attention on experiencing the thrill of working on your first project and learning new skills instead of worrying about possibly making mistakes and hesitating to cut into higher-priced leathers. Your first leather project is an opportunity to express your creative spirit through the art of leathercraft. Check out videos on this page for an overview of leathercraft expert Chuck Dorsett’s tool and leather recommendations for newbies as well as a more in-depth explanation regarding the different cuts of leather with tips on utilizing cuts like single shoulders and double shoulders in your crafting to give you both quality and affordability.

 

Which Leather Should I Use For My Next Project
Recommended Leather And LeatherWork Tool For Beginners



3. Basic leathercrafting skills = NOT-SO-BASIC RESULTS

The key to success in any hobby is focusing on the fundamentals. In leathercrafting, you’ll find learning essential skills like cutting, saddle stitching, edge finishing, and leather dyeing will yield knowledge that will serve you well whether you’re on your first or one-hundred-and-first project. Taking the time to master these basics in the beginning will allow you to build upon this strong foundation when tackling more advanced leatherworking projects down the road.

LEARNING BASIC LEATHERWORKING SKILLS:

The Leather Element: 6 Options for Cutting Leather
How to Hand Stitch Leather
The Leather Element: Edge Work
How to Dye Leather



4. The right leatherworking tools for the job

A successful leather project starts with quality tools that get the job done right. When you’re just starting out, you may find you only need a few basics like a Steel Square, a Leather Knife, and a Cutting Surface — a simple piece of plywood can serve as a cutting surface if that’s what you readily have on hand. As your skill level and projects advance, consider adding more supplies including a Marble Slab, a Revolving Punch, a set of Diamond Chisels, a Poly or Rawhide Mallet, a Cutting Board, and a Rivet Setter to your toolbox. After experiencing the ease and versatility the right tools bring to your craft, you’ll be on the lookout for more tools that help you work smarter, not harder.

The lowdown on leather working tools



5. Types of leather demistified

Whether you’re new to leathercrafting or are a seasoned veteran, the number of leathers available for purchase can be intimidating. Here’s an overview of the main types of leather and some of their ideal uses.

VEG TAN NATURALTanned without harsh chemicals using a tightly-controlled process that utilizes tree bark and other natural tannins, this leather is prized for both its beauty and its workability. On average, veg tanned hides undergo a one to three-month process that’s reflected in the beauty, workability and cost of the final product. Project Ideas for Veg Tanned Leather: Strap goods, dog collar, knife sheath, holster sheath, wallet, coin purse, glasses case, key fob, notepad cover, journal cover as well as a plethora of projects you’d like to try stamping, dyeing, and forming/molding techniques.

CHROME TANNED LEATHERThe time involved and expense of veg tanned leathers led to the development of chrome tanning in the mid-1800s. Chrome tanning takes about a day in contrast to the one to three-month veg tanning process, making it a more economical choice. Today, about 80-90% of the world’s leather supply is chrome tanned and it is heralded for its stain and water resistance as well as its consistency in color. Project Ideas for Chrome Tanned Leather: Purses, bags, vests, personal accessories, tassels, liners, filigree projects, decorative inlays, and more.



6. Confidently buy leather your first time & everytime

Whether you’re a beginner or a more advanced leathercrafter, it’s important you buy from a reputable company that stands behind its leather. Because buying leather online without the ability to see it up close and feel it in your hands can be a leap of faith, look for a leather supplier that offers Low Cost Leather Samples and provides Free Shipping on Leather Returns. That way, if for some reason the leather you selected based on an online description and photo does not meet your needs, you’re covered. Our leathercraft expert Chuck Dorsett recommends going with quality leathers in more budget-friendly cuts like a single shoulder or belly in our Affordable Leather for Beginners video. These leathers are available in a range of Thicknesses perfect for a variety of beginner-level projects and are economically priced so you can focus on enjoying your new hobby without worrying about testing out your skills on a higher-priced piece of leather.


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Your success is one of our top priorities at Weaver Leather Supply!

With our free Online Educational resources featuring a wide variety of inspiring leather craft ideas as well as a full range of leather hides, tools, and supplies, you’ll find everything you need to develop your skills for a lifetime of enjoyable leather projects.Our team would love to see what you make with your newfound skills! We invite you to post a photo of your creation and tag us @weaverleathersupply to share your leather art and influence others new to leathercraft!


Buy Here:

https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/?ref=mtrcl 

Shop handmade leather product from a small business in USA with all USA materials. We specialize in all sorts of leathers, even exotic leather like: elephant, stingray, shark, ostrich, giraffe, alligator, caiman, lizard, python, eel, beaver & more. Not only do specialize in exotic leather, but also weapons with lasers, light attachments, red dots, suppressor sights, threaded barrels, compensators & more! All orders are made to order! You design it and choose from all the many options including, thumb break safety strap, sweat shield (body shield), single or double stitching, open or enclosed end, colored stitching, internal liner and many more! MTR Custom Leather wants you to have the perfect holster that functions just the way you like it!

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Update-NEW ARMALASERS Available for ALL Leather Holsters! Trigger Guard Mounted Lasers-Green & Red

Update-NEW ARMALASERS Available for ALL Leather Holsters! Trigger Guard Mounted Lasers-Green & Red

 

TR-Series

Touch Sensor is located in the PERFECT spot

Right at the point where the trigger guard and pistol grip meet. Where your middle finger naturally rests.

All TR models turn on by human touch, not by a mechanical switch or button. As soon as you grasp your pistol, the True-Touch Activation sensor will turn the laser on and keep it on as long as you’re grasping the grip.

It is seamless and immediate and requires no button to be pushed or secondary operation. Move your middle finger forward and the laser will shut off.

U.S. Patent 9,328,994
Additional Patents Pending

Yes, the laser activates just by gripping your pistol.

IMMEDIATE! Without having to think about it, the TR will throw out the most powerful laser beam the law will allow as soon as you grasp your pistol, accurately and immediately. Using human touch, True Touch Technology, you’ll have a normal, natural feel without an awkward push button on the grip.

Available in both Green and Red!

ArmaLaser only uses the 635nm wavelength in our red lasers. 635nm is up to 5 times brighter than standard 650nm lasers.

For the highest visibility, green lasers can’t be beaten. ArmaLaser green lasers have the highest battery life of any concealed carry laser.

VIEW PRODUCTS

Updated Alaskan Chest Rig-Make it into a Drop Leg and Paddle Holster

Alaska Style Hunter’s Rig (C-4)

Designed for hunters who want the weight of the gun to be spread over the back and shoulders. Made for small or large weapons! You design it and we build it! Made in USA <N.C.>

Choose an extra attachment to wear the holster part on the Alaskan Rig on the leg or on the belt.
Drop Leg Attachment comes with: Leg Strap, Drop Leg Shank & Hardware to wear holster on the upper part of the thigh
Paddle– Plastic Paddle with additional holes on the back to adjust the holster to wear on the OWB

DROP LEG OPTION:

Uses same holster on the Alaskan Chest Rig

Our Hunter Rig is a cross the chest shoulder style holster that includes fully adjustable straps and allows ease of use while sitting in a deer stand. Also known as, “Alaska Style Holster”. A lot of people like to use this style of holster for outdoor activities like hunting, hiking and horse back riding. The three straps on the harness are 34″ long and will need to be adjusted and trimmed to your desired fit for comfortable all day carry. The 3 straps aid in the retention of the rig against the body. Keeping the rig nice and secure without worry. This holster includes a tie down as well as a 2-1/4″ wide suede lined shoulder strap for more comfort. The Hunter Rig is fully smooth lined with leather and comes with all stainless steel and black anodized hardware. You can purchase one Hunter’s Rig for one weapon. Than you can purchase just the holster part of the rig for different weapons and interchange them. We can custom make the Hunter’s Rig for several weapons with after market sights and scopes. These are done on request by email or phone call. This holster is the ultimate Hunters Rig.

Paddle Holster Uses same Holster on the Alaskan Chest Rig:

Buy Yours Today:

Alaska Style Hunter’s Rig (C-4)

Pistol CZ USA SHADOW 2 COMPACT NEW Weapon for Custom Leather Holsters-USA

Pistol CZ SHADOW 2 COMPACT

The CZ SHADOW 2 COMPACT is an ideal, compact sized firearm for users and fans of the CZ SHADOW 2 models, which are extremely popular choices for competitors in the IPSC PRODUCTION and PRODUCTION OPTICS divisions.

With a reduction in size, and a significant reduction in weight, the CZ SHADOW 2 COMPACT retains the same key features, shooting comfort and accuracy that have contributed to the CZ SHADOW 2 series winning the world’s most prestigious championships. Its compact dimensions and light weight ensure comfortable all day carry and make it a perfect choice for concealed carry.

Check out the category of holsters available for the CZ Shadow 2 Compact

New Holster Alert!! Platinum Edition A-5 Deluxe Full Size Quick Snap Leather Holster-Coupon Code in BLOG

New Holster Alert!! Platinum Edition A-5 Deluxe Full Size Quick Snap Leather Holster

Platinum Edition (A-5)

Features:

 

  • Upgraded Full Black Tiger Shark with a platinum full stingray inlay (water resistant and scratch resistant)

  • Double layer reinforced mouth piece provides easy eyes off reholstering

  • Custom Hand-Molded to each firearm of choice for better retention

  • Full Combat grip accessibility allows an instant shooting grip

  • Molded sight rail to prevent snags on draw

  • Full slide/barrel coverage

  • Butt-forward cant allows effective concealment

  • Wide platform to enable contouring of the holster for better concealment

  • Fits belts up to 1 3/4″ single layer or nylon belts

10% off this only holster because we know your going to love it. Limited edition platinum stingray leather.

Coupon Code> Platinum10

https://www.mtrcustomleather.com/product/black-label-chrome-edition-a-5/ 

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