MTR Custom Leather-Winter Collection-Must See
A collection of Winter, Christmas, New Years, etc. Colors like green, red, silver, light blue and more! More to come!
Types of Leather
MTR Custom Leather, LLC offers many types of leather for the products. Such as, elephant, shark skin, ostrich, and much more. Learn about the different kinds of leather by checking out these blogs under the type of leather category.
New Autumn Collection-MTR Custom Leather, LLC
Go and checkout our NEW Autumn Collection inspired by the beautiful radiant mahogany-red, burnt orange and bright yellows! Not only color but the pebble like texture to go along with the veins on a leaf will also be on the Autumn Collection of holsters, belts and package deals. This texture comes from our exotic REAL NATURAL Shrunken Bison Leather. Very soft but strong and durable and reliable! No 2 items will be the same due to our hand dying technique done by our professional leather craftsman.
We hope that you enjoy this New Vibrant Autumn Collection that was hand chosen by the owner!
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CLICK HERE TO VIEW OUR NEW AUTUMN COLLECTION
https://www.mtrcustomleather.com/product-category/limited-edition-holsters/ac/
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LEATHER TYPES & TERMS-Raw leather-Craft Leather-FYI
A summary of some of the common types and terms.
Aniline– Type of leather dyed exclusively with soluble dyes. Only the skin is dyed, the surface is not coated with a pigment, a dye coat top is sometimes applied to give a more even colour. Its lack of cover means it is the most attractive, supple and expensive leather, it also the leather which needs the most care.
Bellies – Taken from the edge of the ‘bend or butt’, vegetable tanned, the flank. This article is smaller & narrower in cutting area, it gives the user a classic veg leather at an economic price.
Bends – Term used for sole leather which denotes a half butt, vegetable tanned and rolled flat and hard for use in soles and heels.
Buffing – The process in which leather is sanded or buffed to remove the very top surface or imperfections.
Butts – A part of the hide, usually vegetable tanned, below the shoulders. The leather is generally thicker, less marked and longer & wider in size, suitable for cutting items such as belts.
Chrome Tanned Leather – tanned with chromium salts and/or chromium sulphates for a supple, pliable effect and to prevent discoloration and loss of shape when exposed to moisture.
Coated Leather– Generally made on a split, there is polymer coating applied to the surface which can be embossed to mimic a grain leather. The flexibility and breathability of the leather can be significantly different with a finished split.
Cordovan Leather – made from the tight, firm shell portion of horse butts. Cordovan has very fine pores and a characteristic finish, and is very durable.
Corrected Grain – Leather which is buffed to smooth out imperfections and a pigment is applied to the surface. The leather can then be used as a smooth hi-shine or embossed.
Full Grain– The term used for the outside original skin or hide which has had the hair removed, but otherwise has not been corrected or buffed. Full grain leather possesses the genuine grain of the skin and can also be known as Top Grain.
Linings – Generally a lower grade or economical priced leather used for lining products.
Nap – the term used to describe the fibres standing up on a suede or nubuck.
Nubuck– Aniline dyed leather which has been lightly abraded on the grain surface to create a velvety finish or nap. The nap is very fine because of the tight fibre structure in the grain layer.
Oily Nubuck – Nubuck can also be made with an oily top to give a ‘distressed’ or worn look used mainly on casual boots and shoes.
Patent – High gloss coating on the surface of the leather. It is flexible and retains some breathability.
Pigmented– A durable finish that is provided by a polymer surface coating which contains pigments.
Pull Up – The leather has had a surface finish of a dark wax, when the leather is flexed in shoes or creased in use the top colour lightens to give a ‘worn’ or used look.
Raw Hide– A hide or skin which has only been treated to preserve it before the tanning process.
Semi Aniline– This finish is more durable than aniline it still retains a natural appearance and the light pigment top coat gives a more consistent colour.
Shearling – Wooled sheep and lambskins, tanned with the wool intact.
Shoulders – These are used in both heavy vegetable form for insoles, heels etc. or in lighter weights for leather goods.
Sides – Half a whole hide, generally a cow hide, cut down the back bone to make two sides.
Suede- Leathers that are finished by buffing the flesh side (opposite to the top grain side) to produce a nap.
Suede Split – Leathers that are the underside of the skin, split away from the top grain, dyed and finely buffed.
Veg Tanned Leather– leathers that are made in pools where they remain for some weeks soaked in extracts of natural origin, like quebracho tree, mimosa, chestnut and animal fats.
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Types of Leather from Different Animal Hides-MTR Custom Leather, LLC
Types of Leather from Different Animal Hides
Cattle
Leather can be produced from the skin of any animal. Throughout history many leathers have been made across times, regions, and through different methods.
The most common today are cow, sheep, goat, and pig. Though, most any type can be obtained if needed for a project. Let’s explore some of the more common, and less common types of leather below.
In general, when speaking about animal leathers, those from larger animals such as cattle are referred to as “hides”. Those from smaller animals such as rabbits or pigs are referred to as skins. Also in terms of volume, cattle leather makes up about 67% of the total annual leather production around the world.
Cattle – Bulls
Bulls are un-castrated male cattle. They have higher levels of testosterone and in general, thick, heavy hides. Bull leather is useful for thicker leather uses such as in heavy belts and show and boot soles. A low ratio number of male cattle are kept as bulls, to reproduce the breeds, so much lower amounts of bull leather are usually available than other types.
Cattle – Steers
Steers are castrated male cattle. They are one of the most popular types of animal leather sought. There are also many more steers kept than bulls, so steer leather is more widely available. It works well for leather applications such as saddlery, belts, some shoes, and other strap items.
Cattle – Cows
Cows are female cattle that have had calves. They are very common, and popular. Cow leather is a thick, soft leather that works well for most common leather needs.
Cattle – Heifers
Heifers are female cows that have not yet had a calf. This type of leather is generally soft and pliable, great for shoes, boots, and other similar leather applications.
Cattle – Dairy Cows
Dairy cows are female cattle that are bred primarily for the production of milk. Their hides are generally soft and thin. This makes it a great leather for lighter belts, wallets, clothing, upholstery, and straps.
Cattle – Calves
Calves are young male or female cattle. Their hides are generally very soft, thin, and supple. This makes it useful for finer leather applications such as wallets, watchbands, and smaller leather accessories including handbags.
Pigs
Pigs
Pig leather mostly is produced in China. It is used primarily in clothing, due to the breathability and lightness of the skins. Pig leather makes up about 10% of the total leather production around the world.
Sheep
Sheep
Sheep leather, also called sheep skin, is popular because it often has one side as leather and the other covered in wool. the wool naturally draws perspiration away from the wearer. This makes it an ideal leather for use in year-round seat upholstery, shoes, slippers, boots, and moccasins. Sheep leather, including lamb leather) makes up about 12% of the total leather production around the world.
Goat
Goats
Goat leather is a very soft, strong, and durable leather. It is used often in the production of shoes, boots, gloves, rugs, and bags. The skins are supple and flexible, making for a comfortable feel. Goat and kid (young goat) leather makes up about 11% of the total leather production around the world.
Horse
Horse
Horse leather is most commonly associated with the premium “cordovan” leather. It is made from the butt section of horses. Cordovan leather is very thick, smooth, and dense. It works excellently for fine shoes and gloves. Also, when compared to cattle hides, horse butts cover a relatively small surface area. This is why cordovan leather products are usually small items such as shoes, gloves, and small accessories.
Source: Types of Leather: All Qualities, Grades, Finishes, & Cuts
Types of Leather Used for Furs-MTR Custom Leather
Some animals have a desirable fur as part of their hide. They are used to make clothing and accessories that utilize the hair left on the hide, in the double face type of leather finishing. One face is finished leather, the other race is the animal fur. Here is a non-inclusive list of leathers used for furs:
- Beaver
- Chinchila
- Coyote
- Fox
- Lynx
- Mink
- Muskrat
- Opossum
- Rabbit
- Raccoon
- Sable
- Seal
- Wolf
Source: Types of Leather: All Qualities, Grades, Finishes, & Cuts
Exotic Animal Leathers-Types of Animal-MTR Custom Leather, LLC
Exotic Animal Leathers
Fur Coat
Since leather can be made from any animal, there are often a variety of leather types available. They are often referred to as “exotic” leathers, since they’re less common and sometimes difficult to obtain, make, or find. Here is non-inclusive exotic leather list:
- Alligator
- Alpaca
- Antelope
- Armadillo
- Bear
- Buffalo
- Caiman
- Camel
- Deer
- Dog
- Elk
- Frog
- Giraffe
- Hippo
- Kangaroo
- Moose
- Mules
- Ostrich
- Rabbit
- Seal
- Shark
- Snake
- Wallaby
- Walrus
- Yak
- Zebra
Source: Types of Leather: All Qualities, Grades, Finishes, & Cuts
Types of Leather Finishes – Finished Leathers-MTR Custom Leather, LLC
Types of Leather Finishes – Finished Leathers
Leathers with Different Textured Surfaces
When leathers are made, they can be finished in many different ways. These methods yield leathers that can be used for a variety of different purposes. Variations can include texture, flexibility, color, and finish. Let’s explore some of the major types of finished leather.
Aniline Leather
Aniline leather is a type of leather dyed only with soluble dyes. They allow the natural surface of the leather to show through (blemishes, cuts, etc.). Generally only higher quality leathers are used since they have nice, even surfaces.
It is then finished with a thin protective coating to help prevent fast wear of the leather, or any other staying or discoloration from showing up on the surface.This can be a visually appealing dye approach, since it does allow the original surface of the leather to show through.
Semi Aniline Leather
Semi-aniline leather is a type of leather that is dyed only with soluble dyes. It is similar to aniline leather, though it is only slightly pigmented. Semi-aniline leathers allow the natural surface of the leather to show through (blemishes, cuts, etc.).
It is then finished with a thin protective coating to help prevent fast wear of the leather, or any other staying or discoloration from showing up on the surface.Generally only higher quality leathers are used since they have nice, even surfaces. This can be a visually appealing dye approach, since it does allow the original surface of the leather to show through.
Antique Grain Leather
Antique grain is a type of leather that has been treated with a surface affect to give an aged and worn appearance. It might involve several tones of finish, or a rubbed patten to mimic wear over time. Antique grain leather allows one to utilize an aged look in their finished product, without requiring the leather to be very old or worn out.
Bicast Leather
Bicast is a type of leather made with a split leather backing and an embossed/impressed layer of polyurethane or vinyl on the top. This gives the appearance of a patterned/shiny leather, without the cost of a true top or full grain leather piece.
Brush Colored Leather
Brush colored leather is a type of leather that has pigment applied via a brush. This creates a unique pattern of color on each piece. The variations might be in gradient, blending, or overall tone. Bruch colored leather is nice for finished pieces that seek a distinct and creative visual appeal.
Degrained Leather
Degrained leather is a type of leather that has had the grain layer removed. This generally occurs towards the end of the production process. Benefits of degrained leather include a smooth, consistent surface that looks quite nice. However, removing the grain also weakens the outer surface of the layer, making it more susceptible to wear and moisture penetration.
Double Face Leather (Double Sided Leather)
Double face leather, also referred to as double sided leather, is a type of leather that has two uniquely finished sides. Some examples include sheep skins, where one side is finished leather and the other is wool. Another is leather that might have different embossed surfaces, one on each side. It could also relate to color, with each side being a unique color or variation of colors.
Embossed Leather
Embossed leather is a type of leather created by producing raised patterns on the finished hide. This can be done by stamping, pressing, rolling, moulding, or forming the leather. the embossed elements can be designs, lettering, or any visual enhancement to the leather’s surface.
Embroidered Leather
Embroidered leather is a type of leather that has had embroidery applied to it. Embroidery is the craft of embellishing materials with needle and thread. The pattern of the thread is usually placed in such a way as to result in a decorative pattern or motif that is now part of the embroidered material. this is done mainly for visual or aesthetic reasons.
Faux Leather
Faux leather is a type of synthetic leather made generally of polyurethane or vinyl. Faux leather is intended to look like real leather yet cost significantly less. It is used often in the furniture industry and has the benefits of being inexpensive (compared to real leather), durable, and easy to clean.
It does however not reflect real leather qualities such as wearing better over time, having natural stretchability, breathability, and resistance to cuts and other abrasions, and a unique natural look/feel.
Faux leather can be referred to by a number of names, which can include:
- Faux Leather
- PU Leather
- Vinyl Leather
- Vegan Leather
For a detailed look at this type of material, click here for my article about synthetic leather and how it’s made.
Hand Worked Leather
Handworked Leather is a type of leather created by the manual application of leather tools. This can result in leather with tooled, stamped, etched, or embossed surfaces. The results can look quite stunning as the craft of hand working leather is an art in itself.
Interwoven Leather
Interwoven Leather is a type of leather that has been braided together. Often seen in belts, the weave of the leather laces or strips creates a unique looking , textured piece. Weaving leather can be used for straps or belts, as well as small bags and pouches, depending on the skill of the weaver.
Metallic Leather
Metallic Leather is a type of leather that has had a metal layer of material added to it during the finishing process. This layer creates a metallic, shiny, reflective look to the finished leather. It provides a finishing option that is most often used in clothing, accessories, and handbags.
Nappa (Napa)
Napa is type of leather this is more a general marketing term for a soft, smooth, full grain leather. Some napa comes from genuine leather and isn’t the highest of quality; the term itself isn’t a clear identifier of quality or material. Moreso, it can be used to connote a smooth, soft leather. The history and more details on nubck are available in my Napa leather article here.
Nubuck Leather
Nubuck is a type of leather that is a top-grain leather that has has the surface sanded in such a way as to leave the surface with a slight nap of short protein fibers. This produces a soft, velvet-like surface that is pleasing to touch, and also has a unique visual appearance. Nubuck leather is often used in jackets, gloves, and accessories. More details are available in my nubuck-specific article here.
Oil Leather (Pull-Up Leather, Waxy Leather, Waxed Leather)
Oil Leather, also known as pull-up leather, waxy leather, and waxed leather, is a type of leather that has a larger volume than average amount of oils and waxes in the surface finish. When the leather pieces are flexed and moved, the surface catches the light in different ways, do to the reflections on the oils and waxes. This provides for a varied look across surface tones, which could be quite visually appealing.
Patent Leather
Patent leather is a type of leather that has a high-gloss finish applied via a coating, generally linseed oil. It was developed in 1818 (by inventor Seth Boyden in Newark, New Jersey). Patent leather finishing is often very noticeable with a highly-reflective finish. More modern patent leather replaces the linseed oil finish with a plastic coating finish. Click here for my detailed article on patent leather.
Pearlized Leather
Pearlized Leather is a type of leather that has had a liquid layer of color added to the surface during finishing. It provides for a soft, subtle shine and reflection to the leather. While not as reflective as metallic leather, pearlized leather is a subtler implementation of the same concept. It is popularly used on clothing, accessories, and handbags.
Pigmented Leather
Pigmented leather is a type of leather that is finished with a top coat of pigment (or paint). That pigment helps both provide an even surface on the leather, and also a protective coating. Pigmented leather is often coated with a clear protective sealer, to help protect the pigment layer.
Printed Leather
Printed Leather is a type of leather that has has the surface texture printer, to stamped into it. This creates various leather surface types that might serve both functional and aesthetic purposed. Functional purposes might include helping make the leather surface more scratch and abrasion resistant. Aesthetic purposes might include making it look uniformly pebbled or nubbed. The textures of printed leathers can feel preferable as well. Saffiano leather is an example of a printed leather. For a deeper look into pebbled leather, click here to check out my article with more details.
Quilon Leather
Quilon is a tyle of leather produced by the Doc Martens footwear comapny. It is a unique style of smooth leather that is finished with a “haircell” pattern; a fine, textured print that gives the surface a stylish look. Quilon leather was developed in 2007, based on the now-vintage Doc Marten leather from the 1970s. For a detailed look, click here for my article about quilon leather.
Stretch Leather
Stretch Leather is a type of leather that is usually a composite leather made to be able to stretch when used. It can use a processed leather surface mixed with a synthetic under layer that allows the material to stretch yet still retain a uniform look with most of the usual performance qualities. Stretch leathers are often used in clothing and leather goods that will be worn and flex with human movement.
Suede Leather
Suede is a type of leather made using a similar approach as Nubuck, where the surface is sanded in such a way as to leave the surface with a slight nap of short protein fibers. Though, instead of being made from full grain leather, suede is made from split grain leather. Here is my article that dives deeply into suede.
Washable Leather
Washable Leather is a type of leather that is better suited to cleaning. While leather should not be roughly cleaned often (and likely shouldn’t if well-cared for), special leather washing methods are available. For items that have an expected use requiring frequent cleaning, such as some clothes, a washable leather can be used to help ensure the items last longer and stay in great shape.
There are so many types of leather available, suitable for a range of needs. If you’re curious what thicknesses of leather would work well for your next project, click here to read my guide on leather weights. Depending on the type of project you’re working on, or preference for leather qualities, you’ll likely find a great leather that will help make some incredible leather goods. If you’d like to learn more about becoming a leatherworker, click here for my article on the leatherworker career path.
Source: Types of Leather: All Qualities, Grades, Finishes, & Cuts
Types of Leather Cuts-MTR Custom Leather, LLC
Types of Leather Cuts
A finished leather hide has a fairly large amount of leather to choose from when deciding where to cut from the use pieces on a project. Based on the area of the hide in relation to the animal’s body, some pieces will be a little higher quality and a little easier to work with.
Finished leather can usually be purchased based on cut type. This can include the full hide, or specific areas within it. Based on the type of project you are working on and the performance characteristics you want in the finished piece, it can be helpful to know what the different available cuts are.
If you’re looking for exactly where get leather cuts or pieces for a project, click here to review the buying guide I’ve put together.
Leather Hide and Cut Guide
Whole Leather Cut
A whole leather hide encompasses the entire skinned and tanned hide from an animal. Since it includes the areas from all of the other related cuts, the leather available will range from softer areas with various stretch characteristics, to thicker, stiffer areas of the hide. The range of leather thickness and weight will vary across the entire hide.
Side Leather Cut
The side cut of a leather hide is a half of an entire hide, cut lengthwise along the middle. since this includes at least parts of areas from all related cuts, the leather available will range from softer areas with various stretch characteristics, to thicker, stiffer areas of the hide.
Shoulder Leather Cut
The shoulder cut of a leather hide comes from the shoulder area of the animals. This area generally has a firm, yet malleable and flexible feel to it. Shoulder cuts work well for tooling.
Double Shoulder Leather Cut
The double shoulder cut of a leather hide comes from the shoulder area of the animals. It is essentially the entire shoulder area from the hide. This area generally has a firm, yet malleable and flexible feel to it. Shoulder cuts work well for tooling.
Bend Leather Cut
The bend cut of a leather hide is from the area ranging from the spine towards the belly, towards the middle of the hide. This is some of the best leather available in a hide, the prime sections generally towards the hind side before the butt. It is best used for across a number of leather product applications.
Double Bend Leather Cut
The double bend cut of a leather hide is from the area ranging from the spine towards the belly, towards the middle of the hide. This is some of the best leather available in a hide, the prime sections generally towards the hind side before the butt. It is best used for across a number of leather product applications.
Butt Leather Cut
The butt cut of a leather hide is from the hind leg portion of the hide, running around the butt and up towards the spine. This is the thickest and firmest area of the hide. Butt cuts make a good leather for thicker items such as heavy belts.
Double Butt Leather Cut
The double butt cut of a leather hide is from the hind leg portion of the hide, running around the butt and up towards the spine, on both sides of the hide. This is the thickest and firmest area of the hide. Butt cuts make a good leather for thicker items such as heavy belts.
Belly Leather Cut
The belly cut of a leather hide is from the left or right edges of the hide. The belly of animals naturally expands and contracts as food and water are consumed. This makes the belly leather a little softer, and stretchier, than from other areas of the hide. While not considered prime leather, belly cut leather can be used for a variety of leather working uses.
Double Belly Leather Cut
The belly cut of a leather hide is from the left and right edges of the hide. The belly of animals naturally expands and contracts as food and water are consumed. This makes the belly leather a little softer, and stretchier, than from other areas of the hide. While not considered prime leather, belly cut leather can be used for a variety of leather working uses.
Source: Types of Leather: All Qualities, Grades, Finishes, & Cuts
Types of Leather Grades – For Raw Hides-MTR Custom Leather, LLC
Types of Leather Grades – For Raw Hides
Underside of a Leather Hide
When raw hides are produced by meatpackers, they immediately grade them. This grade is used to determine the quality of the raw hide, and enables accurate sales to tanneries. The tanneries will ultimately tan the hides, processing the raw material into a finished leather.
As such, it’s important to know exactly the qualities of leather they are receiving. This ensures they’ll have what’s needed to consistently produce quality finished leathers for the production of leather goods.
When grading raw hides, the inspectors will look for issues including holes, deep cuts, scars, large abrasions, discolorations, machine damage (from the skinning machines), remaining hair, and grain inconsistencies.
It is important to keep in mind, too, that many large ranch operations brand their cattle to denote ownership. Branding involves permanently burning a unique pattern (usually letters or initials) into the skin of the animal. A metal brand in the form of the pattern is heated, then pressed into the animal to leave the pattern permanently burned into the hide. While common, the brand impact to the hide quality is also accounted for in the grading process.
The hides will generally be graded as follows:
Leather Hide Grade – Number One
Number one hides are top grade hides. They generally have no major surface imperfections, holes, or cuts. If there are holes approximately 3-4 inches from the edge of the hides, and they can be trimmed away, they won’t affect the overall grade. About 80% of hides shipped to tanners should be a number one grade.
Leather Hide Grade – Number Two
A number two hide is allowed to have up to four holes or cuts, as long as they are located in a generally straight line on the hide. This would allow them to be cut around later, still yielding a sizable area of usable hide.
Holes should usually be less than 5” to be considered acceptable within a number two grade hide. Grain defects should also be no larger than approximately 1 ft. sq. in coverage area. Approximately 15%-20% of hides shipped to tanners have a number two hide grade.
Leather Hide Grade – Number Three
Number three hides generally have five or more holes or large cuts within the hide, ideally within a generally straight line. This would allow them to be cut around later, still yielding a sizable area of usable hide.
A single cut or hole over 6” can be allowed. There might also be grain defects, or a series of closely-located smaller holes that comprise a surface area larger than 1 ft. sq. In general, number three graded hides should at least yield a 50% usable surface area.
Generally, number three grade hides are only purchased by tanners when they have specifically agreed to purchase this grade of hide.
Leather Hide Grade – Untannable
Hides that do not meet the quality standards of grades number one, two, or three are deemed untannable. They are not shipped to tanners, and enter another viable channel for use of the raw animal hide materials, outside of the leather industry.
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